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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A few months ago my 06 eclipse gs motor spun timing. I found a 07 eclipse gs with a good motor and bad transmission. Is it possible to swap motors without complications? And will I have to relearn the ECM and Etc? Your thoughts and knowledge are appreciated!
 

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In my own experiences, a 4g69 is a 4g69 which will always be a 4g69. The motor in my 06 GS is from a 2007 galant. with that said, the intake manifold is different and you can either swap your eclipse IM for it or just lengthen a couple wires and keep the galant IM. i opted for the galant IM and i can't say that i recommend or regret it since i really haven't noticed much difference. But back on topic, as long as its a 4g69 you won't have to do anything other than put it in and i would recommend doing the ECU relearn that is lingering around the forum. Good luck on the adventure and It would be a good idea to do any maintenance to the engine while it's on a stand.
 
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Yessir we are completely breakin it down and replacing literally every gasket. While it’s out. And awesome that’s what I thought. Thank you!
Remeber to get that 400$ oil pump while you're at it. That is definitely not something you wanna do in-frame.
 

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Hell yea I’ll do that with the timing belt and water pump also! If you think of anything else or little tips that helped I’d love em
Well since you insist, you'll want to do your anti-roll mounts
The second one specifally, while you've got the old motor out is the best time. You'll see when you get in there, it's a PITA to do with the engine in the way. Other than that, it looks like you've got it. The oil pump is what took out my last motor, it's not exactly a common fault in these engines. I recommend it because you never know what the previous guy did to the poor thing.While the engine is out, you could also invest in an oil pressure gauge if you really wanted to, the port for the OEM pressure sender is right under the intake manifold, not hard to get to in frame but when in Rome, right? And when you get it back running, 5w20 isn't really a thick enough oil for these engines. You can read in the owners manual that it will recommend 5w30 in harsh climate. There's been a handful of threads addressing how Mitsubishi used 5w20 to slither under the emissions/MPG bar.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Both of those items in my RockAuto cart lol. I’m sitting at 1000$ in parts in my cart. Injectors, timing kit, oil pump, head bolts, gaskets, seals. Probably gunna re-ring pistons but passed that I’m leaving them alone. All 4 cylinders look great
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
@Sabertooth^2 not this one! The one I pull out that is currently broke is the one gettin the upgrades. I’m just tryin to get these wheels turnin for a relatively low price. Wife and I just had 1rst baby so. If it ain’t runnin I kinda need it gone. Done traded my chainsaw to fix it 🤣
 

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2009 GS Turbo. 2007 Mid Engine GT
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@Sabertooth^2 not this one! The one I pull out that is currently broke is the one gettin the upgrades. I’m just tryin to get these wheels turnin for a relatively low price. Wife and I just had 1rst baby so. If it ain’t runnin I kinda need it gone. Done traded my chainsaw to fix it 🤣
Damn. Well, if it's not too late, you can skip the injectors if yours haven't failed. They're not a common maintenance item. And if you're not changing the main bolts, you're in the same territory with head bolts. I've stuffed them back in before with threadlock. It's not that above board, but works in a pinch when money is tight. Just be sure there isn't oil inside the holes. I've probably had the head bolts off on my TT 6 times, and it runs up to 30psi boost. It's not right, but did work.

Oil pump, main and rod bearings, piston rings, a quick cylinder hone, new seals, new gaskets (don't use a rear main gasket, use RTV instead, same with the oil pan), timing kit (with water pump) and you can probably call it a day for the next 100,000 miles if your piston skirts and cylinder walls aren't ovaling

EDIT: This is all with a tight budget in mind to be clear. Sometimes working for 95% 100k miles and affordable beats 100% at 200k miles and expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well since you insist, you'll want to do your anti-roll mounts
The second one specifally, while you've got the old motor out is the best time. You'll see when you get in there, it's a PITA to do with the engine in the way. Other than that, it looks like you've got it. The oil pump is what took out my last motor, it's not exactly a common fault in these engines. I recommend it because you never know what the previous guy did to the poor thing.While the engine is out, you could also invest in an oil pressure gauge if you really wanted to, the port for the OEM pressure sender is right under the intake manifold, not hard to get to in frame but when in Rome, right? And when you get it back running, 5w20 isn't really a thick enough oil for these engines. You can read in the owners manual that it will recommend 5w30 in harsh climate. There's been a handful of threads addressing how Mitsubishi used 5w20 to slither under the emissions/MPG bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Damn. Well, if it's not too late, you can skip the injectors if yours haven't failed. They're not a common maintenance item. And if you're not changing the main bolts, you're in the same territory with head bolts. I've stuffed them back in before with threadlock. It's not that above board, but works in a pinch when money is tight. Just be sure there isn't oil inside the holes. I've probably had the head bolts off on my TT 6 times, and it runs up to 30psi boost. It's not right, but did work.

Oil pump, main and rod bearings, piston rings, a quick cylinder hone, new seals, new gaskets (don't use a rear main gasket, use RTV instead, same with the oil pan), timing kit (with water pump) and you can probably call it a day for the next 100,000 miles if your piston skirts and cylinder walls aren't ovaling

EDIT: This is all with a tight budget in mind to be clear. Sometimes working for 95% 100k miles and affordable beats 100% at 200k miles and expensive.
Only thing I’ve purchase as of now is this 07 eclipse. I’m just now lookin and ordering parts for it. I’m gunna try to fix this 07 before I take the motor for my 06. But not looking good. Transmission throwing a P0734 code in gear 4. Throws it in limp mode won’t come out of third. TCM is trash I believe. Do you know if these have PCM?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
On an auto, the ECU is also known as PCM. It's the same computer for engine and trans.

The traction control is controlled in the ABS module, as well as PCM.
So it’s a PCM! Awesome. That’s very helpful. I knew it was all of them in one basically but I didn’t know if that’s what it ran. I’ve been searching for trouble codes to see if it will tell me what and where is goin bad in the transmission but. Hadn’t had luck. I downloaded that PDF manual I’ve seen everywhere on here but y’all know bout any paper copies?
 

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Take the file to your local print shop. Be warned, that's not actually the full version. I can probably email a full copy as a single document to you. PM me if you want so your email isn't out there for web crawlers to send you spam with
 

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Take the file to your local print shop. Be warned, that's not actually the full version. I can probably email a full copy as a single document to you. PM me if you want so your email isn't out there for web crawlers to send you spam with
Awh but Saber i've been trying to reach Joker about his cars extended warranty :(
 
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Awh but Saber i've been trying to reach Joker about his cars extended warranty :(
Don't worry! I have an automated service for that! Simply call 555-272-8276, have your credit card ready, and we'll collect your info for record keeping purposes only, while then sending a message automatically to the client of your choice!
 
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