Rod knock

330 Views 13 Replies 3 Participants Last post by 4gperez, 34 m ago

4gperez

Discussion Starter · 24 d ago

Hey guys sadly Imy rod started knocking two days ago after a two hour drive I kinna gassed it and it made bunch of noise but didn’t shift it was in drive then in low gears at higher rpm’s it started knocking I drove thirty minutes home with it like this and it I drove in 4 th in low and it didn’t knock. My oil light came on and then turned off I got home and immediately changed the oil and filter but it continued,my mechanic family friend looked at it and said it was rod knock what a solution to fixing it is there anything I can do cuz I really don’t wanna get rid of it but ima kid and don’t know what to do. I have a 2011 gs sport

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Sabertooth^2

· #2 · 24 d ago

Likely a new crankshaft, rods, and rod bearings.

Had you caught it early and had the car towed, just rod bearings, which can be done without pulling the motor for about $40 in a driveway. Now you're looking into an engine block full rebuild or junkyard motor swap (which optimally should be rebuilt)

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4gperez

Discussion Starter · #3 · 24 d ago

Sabertooth^2 said:
Likely a new crankshaft, rods, and rod bearings.

Had you caught it early and had the car towed, just rod bearings, which can be done without pulling the motor for about $40 in a driveway. Now you're looking into an engine block full rebuild or junkyard motor swap (which optimally should be rebuilt)
[/QUOT

Sabertooth^2 said:
Likely a new crankshaft, rods, and rod bearings.

Had you caught it early and had the car towed, just rod bearings, which can be done without pulling the motor for about $40 in a driveway. Now you're looking into an engine block full rebuild or junkyard motor swap (which optimally should be rebuilt)

thanks for getting back to me I found bearings, where can I find rods and crankshaft and while I’m getting the parts iss replaced should I get stronger ones?

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Sabertooth^2

· #4 · 24 d ago

Crank, dealership or junkyard. You can inspect yours first. But if you can see any scratches then the nitriding is done for, and it'll likely wear out in under 100 miles again sadly.

Rods, RockAuto sells OEM style ones. May as well get a timing kit and fresh oil pump there too. They'll also have gasket kits. I always go for a nicer head gasket like a Mahle than kits come with however

If you want to go stronger, I can get stronger pistons, rods, bearings, and studs for 700hp/1000hp FI builds. But being a GS sport it wouldn't benefit you as the auto trans is the weak point, not the motor. So it's a bunch of money to have a very expensive and higher maintenance engine than stock without any gains. Hopefully that sales pitch is as bad as I was hoping--it's not something I'd suggest, even if it pays my bills.

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4gperez

Discussion Starter · #5 · 24 d ago

Sabertooth^2 said:
Crank, dealership or junkyard. You can inspect yours first. But if you can see any scratches then the nitriding is done for, and it'll likely wear out in under 100 miles again sadly.

Rods, RockAuto sells OEM style ones. May as well get a timing kit and fresh oil pump there too. They'll also have gasket kits. I always go for a nicer head gasket like a Mahle than kits come with however

If you want to go stronger, I can get stronger pistons, rods, bearings, and studs for 700hp/1000hp FI builds. But being a GS sport it wouldn't benefit you as the auto trans is the weak point, not the motor. So it's a bunch of money to have a very expensive and higher maintenance engine than stock without any gains. Hopefully that sales pitch is as bad as I was hoping--it's not something I'd suggest, even if it pays my bills

Sabertooth^2 said:

Crank, dealership or junkyard. You can inspect yours first. But if you can see any scratches then the nitriding is done for, and it'll likely wear out in under 100 miles again sadly.

Rods, RockAuto sells OEM style ones. May as well get a timing kit and fresh oil pump there too. They'll also have gasket kits. I always go for a nicer head gasket like a Mahle than kits come with however

If you want to go stronger, I can get stronger pistons, rods, bearings, and studs for 700hp/1000hp FI builds. But being a GS sport it wouldn't benefit you as the auto trans is the weak point, not the motor. So it's a bunch of money to have a very expensive and higher maintenance engine than stock without any gains. Hopefully that sales pitch is as bad as I was hoping--it's not something I'd suggest, even if it pays my bills.

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Ok jus making sure to see if it would be worth it thanks for being honest 😂 but I found everything i need hopefully labor cost won’t be so insane or my parents will jus make me get rid of it thanks
.

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4gperez

Discussion Starter · #6 · 16 d ago

Sabertooth^2 said:
Crank, dealership or junkyard. You can inspect yours first. But if you can see any scratches then the nitriding is done for, and it'll likely wear out in under 100 miles again sadly.

Rods, RockAuto sells OEM style ones. May as well get a timing kit and fresh oil pump there too. They'll also have gasket kits. I always go for a nicer head gasket like a Mahle than kits come with however

If you want to go stronger, I can get stronger pistons, rods, bearings, and studs for 700hp/1000hp FI builds. But being a GS sport it wouldn't benefit you as the auto trans is the weak point, not the motor. So it's a bunch of money to have a very expensive and higher maintenance engine than stock without any gains. Hopefully that sales pitch is as bad as I was hoping--it's not something I'd suggest, even if it pays my bills.

Hey I think I might just try to change the rod bearings and see if that fixes the issue because they are relatively cheap to get ahold of bearings what tools would I need to properly do the job?

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Sabertooth^2

· #7 · 16 d ago

You can try it. In which case, you'd get a set of rod bearings, and a tube of oil rated RTV.

Basic tools needed: Socket set with ratchet wrenches.

I wouldn't count on it, but can't say I didn't try the same thing 3 times and end up having to replace a crankshaft on one and rod on another. But that one sweet sweet time, it did work.

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4gperez

Discussion Starter · #8 · 16 d ago

Sabertooth^2 said:
You can try it. In which case, you'd get a set of rod bearings, and a tube of oil rated RTV.

Basic tools needed: Socket set with ratchet wrenches.

I wouldn't count on it, but can't say I didn't try the same thing 3 times and end up having to replace a crankshaft on one and rod on another. But that one sweet sweet time, it did work.

Yeah I would change the whole things I found crankshaft, rodds and bearing but no shop wants to touch it so I’m hoping this can fix it my mechanic friend told me to change the oil pump out and the rod bearings but ik that it might not work

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4gperez

Discussion Starter · #9 · 16 d ago

Sabertooth^2 said:
You can try it. In which case, you'd get a set of rod bearings, and a tube of oil rated RTV.

Basic tools needed: Socket set with ratchet wrenches.

I wouldn't count on it, but can't say I didn't try the same thing 3 times and end up having to replace a crankshaft on one and rod on another. But that one sweet sweet time, it did work.

Also would I need a torque wrench cuz I would assume there are specs for the bolts right

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Hensen

· #10 · 2 d ago

I got a rod knock on mine as well in TX. Nobody willing to work on an engine anymore!!

Did you already remove the whole engine?

Let me know how it goes!

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4gperez

Discussion Starter · #11 · 2 d ago

Hensen said:
I got a rod knock on mine as well in TX. Nobody willing to work on an engine anymore!!

Did you already remove the whole engine?

Let me know how it goes!

*Update
No we removed the oil pan and replaced the main bearings and connecting rod bearing only one had any significant damage and it was really not that bad the crank looked great we replaced it took less than three hours . And it running now

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4gperez

Discussion Starter · #12 · 2 d ago

Hensen said:
I got a rod knock on mine as well in TX. Nobody willing to work on an engine anymore!!

Did you already remove the whole engine?

Let me know how it goes!