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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I emailed RPW about what their cam profiles look like for the 6g75 MIVEC

No code has to be inserted here.

and yes, I do know the intake durations stage 2 N/A are shorter than stage 1, when I asked, quote 'You are referring to the one Stage 2 - 602B/602A/1641B, this was a custom profile we did for a particular customer. The increased lift compared to stage 1 creates a “larger” but peakier profile compared to the smaller lift and larger duration. '

price is still $1240 for a pair of cams

edit; ok, something got weird with the table and it isnt showing up on Firefox, Chrome and Opera on Android, I've attached a JPEG screenshot of the table for those having a similar problem, hopefully it will work
 

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I don't really know anything when it comes to cams only that bigger isn't always better but, at one point I I want to do Cams on my 06 4g GT 6MT, I'm currently FBOs right now, all I need is a tune, should/would I get the Stage 2 or Stage 1/1+? Ik the work is probably a pain but if I were to do Cams what else would I need? Retainers? Springs ? Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I'd go with the the manual model Stage 1, it'll be easier to tune and would be less peaky, if your car is your daily, I'd even go as far as going with the automatic transmission version for closer to stock drivability on the low speed profile, but that's just me. You need to do a reflash or use a piggyback for tuning for cams to get the most out of them, the 3g Eclipse/8g Galant guys have done stage 1's (none MIVEC) cams without a reflash, but there was still a lot of the table. Adjustable cam gears (for adjusting piston valve clearance and for timing adjustments) are usually reccomended for stage 2, they are required for stage 3's (which I don't think were ever made for this engine), I still would use adjustable cam gears for stage 1's while you are in there. Valvesprings aren't needed for Stage 1, but they exist from RPW which reportably allow for more lift and are stiffer than stock, I have heard of 3g/8g (once again, usually none MIVEC engines) guys using stage 2's without valvesprings but they advised against that, retainers technically exist, but I don't think anybody outside the 3000gt/Stealth (their valvetrain is very different than ours) community stateside has gone this far.

other items that should be changed out for this would include camshaft seals, timing belt*, waterpump*, timing belt hydralic adjuster*, crankshaft belt sprocket*, valve cover gaskets, spark plug gaskets, sparkplugs**

*standard fair for doing a timing belt change and stuff theat will need to be done anyway
**might as well

my question is, what do you want to get out of your car, do you want a hot street cruiser, street/strip, something for autocross or just a faster daily?
 

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I'd go with the the manual model Stage 1, it'll be easier to tune and would be less peaky, if your car is your daily, I'd even go as far as going with the automatic transmission version for closer to stock drivability on the low speed profile, but that's just me. You need to do a reflash or use a piggyback for tuning for cams to get the most out of them, the 3g Eclipse/8g Galant guys have done stage 1's (none MIVEC) cams without a reflash, but there was still a lot of the table. Adjustable cam gears (for adjusting piston valve clearance and for timing adjustments) are usually reccomended for stage 2, they are required for stage 3's (which I don't think were ever made for this engine), I still would use adjustable cam gears for stage 1's while you are in there. Valvesprings aren't needed for Stage 1, but they exist from RPW which reportably allow for more lift and are stiffer than stock, I have heard of 3g/8g (once again, usually none MIVEC engines) guys using stage 2's without valvesprings but they advised against that, retainers technically exist, but I don't think anybody outside the 3000gt/Stealth (their valvetrain is very different than ours) community stateside has gone this far.

other items that should be changed out for this would include camshaft seals, timing belt*, waterpump*, timing belt hydralic adjuster*, crankshaft belt sprocket*, valve cover gaskets, spark plug gaskets, sparkplugs**

*standard fair for doing a timing belt change and stuff theat will need to be done anyway
**might as well

my question is, what do you want to get out of your car, do you want a hot street cruiser, street/strip, something for autocross or just a faster daily?
Faster daily honestly, I already plan on getting a reflash from a guy that's has Tuned more than a handful of 4gs both 4g69 & 6g75 mivec, he's located in Kissimmee, about 2-3 hr drive for me, & as far as doing the stuff that u mentioned, I did the whole time belt kit with the water pump included about 2 years ago, since then the the car has come a looonngg way, as far as maintenance, only thing I have left to do is the valve covers & spark plugs & spark plug gaskets. I'm not sure if the kit came with the camshafts seals, I would have to look into that, Also u mentioned Stage 1, I honestly will probably end up going with the stage 1 just due to the fact that I want to squeeze a little more power but without getting into other stuff as well. U also mentioned getting adjustable cam gears if I go w/ the stage 1s, so basically all I would need is those & the cams themselves & that's it ? I've read the forums here & basically as long as I have FBOs not including cams & tune u would break 300whp NP, with those stage 1 cams I would like to get possibly 10-20 whp along with a decent about of torque too, at the end of the day torque & driver mod r what wins races AM I right lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Faster daily honestly, I already plan on getting a reflash from a guy that's has Tuned more than a handful of 4gs both 4g69 & 6g75 mivec, he's located in Kissimmee, about 2-3 hr drive for me, & as far as doing the stuff that u mentioned, I did the whole time belt kit with the water pump included about 2 years ago, since then the the car has come a looonngg way, as far as maintenance, only thing I have left to do is the valve covers & spark plugs & spark plug gaskets. I'm not sure if the kit came with the camshafts seals, I would have to look into that, Also u mentioned Stage 1, I honestly will probably end up going with the stage 1 just due to the fact that I want to squeeze a little more power but without getting into other stuff as well. U also mentioned getting adjustable cam gears if I go w/ the stage 1s, so basically all I would need is those & the cams themselves & that's it ? I've read the forums here & basically as long as I have FBOs not including cams & tune u would break 300whp NP, with those stage 1 cams I would like to get possibly 10-20 whp along with a decent about of torque too, at the end of the day torque & driver mod r what wins races AM I right lol.
adjustable cam gears come from just something to do while you are in there, otherwise, I would advise getting new non-adjustable (OEM replacement) ones so you aren't wrestling with getting your original ones off your stock cams. You are going to be pulling off your timing belt and maybe your heads (if that is the case, head gaskets, head bolts, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets) to swap your cams, for the platform I'm on, cam swaps require removal of the heads, somebody else here is going to need to chime in here. I should warn you that these cams are extremely pricey at $1252 (converting from AUD to USD). There are more affordable and easier ways of getting 10 to 20 whp, a small shot of nitrous (depending on the street legality where you are), ported intake manifolds and/or headers come to mind, look into weight reduction too if that is an option. If you are confident enough and are willing to drop this much money into it, and have at least one friend who is mechanically inclined and is local, sure, go for the cam swap, you would be one of a handful of people to do so, just be careful and not get yourself into a hole that would require you to buy a second car and/or time at a machine shop. I am by no means a professional in this and I am more just providing information, do you research, I am probably forgetting something here

please tell me you are racing at the track
 

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adjustable cam gears come from just something to do while you are in there, otherwise, I would advise getting new non-adjustable (OEM replacement) ones so you aren't wrestling with getting your original ones off your stock cams. You are going to be pulling off your timing belt and maybe your heads (if that is the case, head gaskets, head bolts, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets) to swap your cams, for the platform I'm on, cam swaps require removal of the heads, somebody else here is going to need to chime in here. I should warn you that these cams are extremely pricey at $1252 (converting from AUD to USD). There are more affordable and easier ways of getting 10 to 20 whp, a small shot of nitrous (depending on the street legality where you are), ported intake manifolds and/or headers come to mind, look into weight reduction too if that is an option. If you are confident enough and are willing to drop this much money into it, and have at least one friend who is mechanically inclined and is local, sure, go for the cam swap, you would be one of a handful of people to do so, just be careful and not get yourself into a hole that would require you to buy a second car and/or time at a machine shop. I am by no means a professional in this and I am more just providing information, do you research, I am probably forgetting something here

please tell me you are racing at the track
Gotcha alright, I will keep doing research, I've done some but it never hurts to do more. As far as track goes I plan on going after I get tuned, I by no way means am going to drop this much money outta nowhere I would have to save for them ofc, as far as porting & polishing the intake manifold & lower plenum I haven't found someone close by to do them. I was looking into going a bigger throttle body but the only of shelve one I could find is a dude who bores out the factory one which is 65mm to 67 but I don't see that making that much of a difference so I'm not going to go that route if I could find a "Bolt On" one say 70mm-75mm with doing little modification then I would pull the plug & do it, I read here on the forums u can go as big as 80mm but u would need to switch to cable TB over Drive by wire, that's definitely a BIG NO as the car is currently my DD & I only have 2 sometimes 3 days off of work.
 
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