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It's pretty remarkable what an ECU tune can do. I've installed a cold air intake, gutted all 3 cats, installed a high-performance muffler, throttle body bypass, etc, etc. I've probably spent 30 hours crawling around under the car, replacing this, adjusting that...and then Stas (Stayer) comes along and does more for my car and in less than 1 hour, than all the time I've put into the Eclipse since buying it. The engine responds faster and more aggressively no matter what gear you're in or what speed you're driving at. All it takes is a muscle twitch and then a quarter-second later, you're pushed back into your seat, feeling the exhilaration of raw thrust wash over you as your speedometer passes the mark at which cops stop ticketing you and start arresting you.

What you will need for the tune:
- A Mitsubishi Eclipse, model year 2006 & later
- A Tactrix 2.0 OpenPort cable (Don't get a Chinese knock-off)
- A Laptop with Windows 7, 8, or 10 & a good battery
- A PayPal account to pay Stas for his hard work & ingenuity
- A strong cup of coffee to keep you awake as Stas is in another timezone & does his magic late at night (for us)

1. Download & install the OpenPort drivers & EcuFlash from the official Tactrix website
2. Download & install TeamView on your laptop & WhatsApp on your phone (for communication)
3. Contact Stas through WhatsApp. BE PATIENT! He is in another time zone
4. Have your car info handy (engine type, transmission type, model year)
5. Make sure your laptop gets a decent WiFi signal out in your car for the TeamViewer remote connection
6. Make sure that EcuFlash can detect your Tactrix cable & that the LED's on it are blinking
7. Close all unnecessary background programs & disable your antivirus temporarily

Basically, he will ask you to connect the Tactrix cable from your OBDII port under the dash to your laptop, and turn the ignition switch to on (without starting the car). Once he remotes in via TeamViewer, he will open EcuFlash, verify that its the latest version, select your car ECU type, and start downloading the firmware. Your car will make some clicking noises during this process, it is perfectly normal. Once he's downloaded the firmware, he will copy it via TeamViewer to his computer to analyze the data & make the necessary adjustments. Less than 10 minutes later, he was back with my tune. He transferred the modified file to my computer, loaded it into EcuFlash, & wrote the file to my car's ECU. Don't touch anything in your car during this process. I turned off my headlights, radio, heater, & disconnected all accessories from my cigarette lighter. When it was done, I waited a minute before turning off the ignition and removing the key. I waited another few seconds, and then started the car. Success!

What did the tune do for me? I have an '06 GT Auto. First of all, when in gear, the low, erratic idle from installing the Cold Air Intake went away completely. I didn't notice any difference in how the car sounded at idle, as I have a loud exhaust already, however it definitely felt smoother. Out on the open highway it's another beast entirely. It pulls hard no matter what gear I'm in or what speed I'm already traveling at. And with the Tachometer limit raised to 7000, you can downshift and stay entirely in MIVEC, further increasing performance. Stuck behind a minivan? No problem, the engine downshifts quickly & starts sipping fuel instead of guzzling it, and it's ready to wake up and attack the asphalt again at a moment's notice. It's just like a vehicular Jekyll & Hyde!

I rate the entire experience with Stas 10 out of 10 for speed of service, friendliness, patience, & most of all, quality of service. Thanks, man!
 

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Ricer
2009 BMW 3-Series 335i Coupe
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Cannot fn wait for stayer to tune my 2012 GS. Waiting until the 22nd. :))
 

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He is on about 9 hour time difference than us in the states. Just contact him and schedule a time to both be online. I got mine after the RRE headers. Thanks again, much appreciated!
 

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A30N - thanks for the feedback. I'm glad you liked my work.

NamelessFoe - we just have to agree on a time. I'm on the other side of the planet, we'll always have different times. I can also stay late at work in the evening, it will be early morning for you. You can determine the time yourself. My time zone is +6 hours GMT.
 

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I'm just waiting on Tax Returns to order the Tactrix cable and get this tune done. Tired of a shaking car that idles at 400 and all my power being at 5k. Morning works best for me as my exhaust is too loud to run at night. Hopefully will be in touch soon.
 

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I think he does it for $250, but it’s just a set tune and he doesn’t give you the definition files to edit the tune later

Hackish is $350 but he gives you a more customized tune for your mods and software to be able to edit the tune yourself

You’ll need a $179 Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 either way on top of the cost of these tunes
 

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Just take my word for it. You don't have to tune in. You won't improve it, you'll only make it worse. The creation of this took more than 3 years.
The tune costs $ 300. The cable you buy yourself. The site has long been possible to create such a service, cable rental.
For example, one user sends a Deposit (cable cost). Then gets the cable and does the setup. Then he pays the rent and returns the cable. Rent can be 20-30 dollars. After that gets back the value of the Deposit. It could make an admin or moderator.
 

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Is it worth getting the tune without having a decent amount of mods first? I’m installing a CAI this weekend, then over the next couple months doing headers and exhaust. Does it make the most sense to wait until after that is all done to do the tune? Thanks!
 

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Is it worth getting the tune without having a decent amount of mods first? I’m installing a CAI this weekend, then over the next couple months doing headers and exhaust. Does it make the most sense to wait until after that is all done to do the tune? Thanks!
Yes you should get the tune for all of the mods you are planning to run on the car, especially air intakes and exhaust work, especially if you’re removing cats from the exhaust

You could also get a tune and tell the tuner what mods you’re planning on installing so they can give you a base tune for all of the mods that you are planning on installing, so that the tune is already in place for when you get those parts installed
 

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Is it worth getting the tune without having a decent amount of mods first? I’m installing a CAI this weekend, then over the next couple months doing headers and exhaust. Does it make the most sense to wait until after that is all done to do the tune? Thanks!
It is not necessary to wait for the installation of all modifications. Any modification carries additional air for power. I take that air into account in the tune. The octane corrector is connected. It is in the factory tune, but is in sleep mode. So when in the future, you install any mod, the ECU will understand that.
This does not apply to heavy modifications - reground camshaft, SC, turbo.
 

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It is not necessary to wait for the installation of all modifications. Any modification carries additional air for power. I take that air into account in the tune. The octane corrector is connected. It is in the factory tune, but is in sleep mode. So when in the future, you install any mod, the ECU will understand that.
This does not apply to heavy modifications - reground camshaft, SC, turbo.
Stayer can you tune for E85?

What all needs to be done for it?

Or is it fine to run E85 on a standard aftermarket ECU tune?

Thanks
 

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I will not undertake to configure remotely. This can be done on the dyno. On the stock ECU set up possible. But after setting the car will not work normally on conventional commercial gasoline. There is no possibility to switch from mode to mode in the stock ECU.
 

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I will not undertake to configure remotely. This can be done on the dyno. On the stock ECU set up possible. But after setting the car will not work normally on conventional commercial gasoline. There is no possibility to switch from mode to mode in the stock ECU.
Thanks for responding so quickly

So those E85 kits that are for sale are not necessary when the stock ECU can do just as good?
That is what I thought, just want to clarify

Also, what is the injector duty cycle percentage % of the stock fuel injectors on the 4G69 with 87 octane fuel? How much extra capacity of the fuel injectors do we have for E85 before having to switch to bigger injectors?

Thanks so much
 
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