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Discussion Starter #1
I have newer EBC rotors and OEM pads (<3k miles) and fairly new brake fluid (ATE 200) and considering swapping front pads for track day. I've heard that this can cause major rotor warping, and also that it's perfectly fine as long as both get proper bedding (street to track, track to street). My question is, would I need to bleed brakes both times or at all?

*Note: I've never actually installed pads before, and the bleeding part seems the trickiest/PITA.
 

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No you don’t need to bleed, if you have to retract the piston just open the brake fluid reservoir cap first and try to do it quick to not get moisture in the system
 

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^this, but I never open the cap to retract the pistons in calipers. If you top up brake fluid with worn pads/rotors, you may need to. But if you do it properly (let it go down a little as pads wear, never fill above the minimum needed with worn brakes), then you're fine
 

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^this, but I never open the cap to retract the pistons in calipers. If you top up brake fluid with worn pads/rotors, you may need to. But if you do it properly (let it go down a little as pads wear, never fill above the minimum needed with worn brakes), then you're fine
I made sure mine was at Full when I put brand new brake components on and bled, I let it go down to minimum with the pads wearing, easy way to tell your pad life just by looking at the amount left to Minimum
I thought removing the cap had to do with extra pressure on the brake system from retracting the piston but there’s so much pressure in brake lines anyway I doubt it really matters
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Very cool, this makes sense. Was hoping that was the case since both street and track pads would be new, the brake fluid would see little difference in level/pressure. Thank you both!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Swapped to track day pads today! Little bedding is needed, but so far they feel great. We'll see how they do on track this week. Glad I did it, first pic shows how much more overall coverage there is than OEM pad. Excited to see how they do.
 

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Basically Stock
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Geez. That's rough. I've always run brembo or max performance on mine though.


That's upsetting to see OEM is so small. It'll heat up faster though, so have a hard initial bite. Less surface area will also give a harder bite per pedal effort of equal materials. It's the same concept as drilled rotors. That said, it's not needed (like drilled rotors, because this in't 1980), and is upsetting to see.
 
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