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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

In dirtbike engines I've heard the phrase "tappy valves are happy valves" but I'm not sure it transfers over to cars. My 06 GT that I've been fixing over the last year is now running and driving with ease and doesn't seem to be lacking power but the loud valve train has me really worried. To the point that I installed a prosport oil pressure gauge. I'm getting 9 or 10 religiously at idle and 59 at 3.5k RPM so I'm well within spec running 10w40 synthetic mobil1. Over the last few months I've done the timing belt, had both heads resurfaced and inspected, replaced 2 rocker arms due to bent valves on #1, set valve lash according to FSM with engine cold. Have not readjusted at hot however but from what I've read, valve lash wouldn't be THAT noisy. Every seal/gasket from the heads up have been replaced. Spark plugs, full tank of 93, all accessory belts. I've done a lot to the car so far without getting into the block so I'm happy with it. It's just that dammed valve chatter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Drove the car around for about 25 minutes until it was good and toasty, I did the valve adjustment as soon as I pulled in the driveway. A few were a little tight but nothing really ridiculous. While I was in there I took a magnet and got quite a few metal shavings out of the cylinder head. Needless to say, the noise is still present and it appears I'm the next contestant on "Spin That Bearing!" Tell me what I've won Vanna! "Well Tyler you've won a no-expenses-paid trip to the crankshaft, complete with the chance to reseal that shitty leaking oil pan!" But in all seriousness, it didn't make this noise after putting it back together. It only made it after I drove it back and forth to work one night and I noticed it when I was stopped at a red-light. The next day I made the swap from 10w30 to 10w40. I'm hoping I caught it early enough to just change out bearings, call it a day and make it another 100k


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Blurry picture, but from what I can see, Lucas oil stabilizer looks to be the answer more than 10-40. But that's just borrowed time
Someone said VR1 20W50? 👀
 

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I’m sticking with 5-20 Castrol till death I dont think the heavy weight oils are good for the cylinder head. Changed early and often! And make sure the oil cooler is decent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’m sticking with 5-20 Castrol till death I dont think the heavy weight oils are good for the cylinder head. Changed early and often! And make sure the oil cooler is decent.
Someone much smarter will have to factcheck me but I'm fairly positive mitsu only used 5w20 to squeeze a little extra fuel economy out of these engines. You'll find in your FSM that it recommends 5w30 or 10w30 in harsh climate. Personally, I refuse to use 5w20 even in my beater. 5w30 or bust
 

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Yep. 5w-20 just barely meets tolerances on a brand new engine, and only for gentle use. Anything over half throttle, 5w-20 is no longer within factory spec. Same as if the weather is 90f, 5w-20 is no longer in spec.

Of course, through wear the bearings do open up a little. Making 5w-20 not at all within spec once there's some wear.


As for swearing by Castrol, hopefully it's not the Castrol Edge. That stuff can't handle heat worth a damn, and breaks down so fast.

The GTX full synthetic is an alright mid grade true synthetic, but they don't give heat breakdown info on it in their data sheets. It does get a bit more runny than Amsoil, Redline, and LiquiMoly do at 100c. Those 3 would be brands to swear by, however. Mobil 1, a cheaper choice, is still above Castrol for stability of the oil. I talk up the Amsoil because I have not found a quantifiably better oil yet, plus it impressed me so much when I could pour my 75w-90 oil at -20c into my trans like it was warm. Nearly unchanged properties from -40c to +100c, and then a mild dropoff as it nears 150c. The 5w-30 is still within viscosity spec for the engine at 150c even. It's insane how different things get when you are dealing with synthetic esters vs refined conventional as most synthetics use
 

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Lightweight oil is for the small passages in the cylinder head I trust the light stuff I’ve beat the piss out of my Honda Ridgeline all summer and winter on gtx edge and change it every 3000 miles with the filter and I’ve been rocking it for 6 years it’s got 230,000 city miles running strong! My eclipse I change every spring and fall and I only put 1500 miles or less a year both running on gtx edge 5-20
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Lightweight oil is for the small passages in the cylinder head I trust the light stuff I’ve beat the piss out of my Honda Ridgeline all summer and winter on gtx edge and change it every 3000 miles with the filter and I’ve been rocking it for 6 years it’s got 230,000 city miles running strong! My eclipse I change every spring and fall and I only put 1500 miles or less a year both running on gtx edge 5-20
This is probably one of the only times I've encountered someone that truly defended lightweight oil AND Castrol in the same breath. Lol. If 20 weights are getting you to 230,000 that's awesome, they 0w10 and really get that oil in those small passages 😉 I, once upon a time, ran only 5w20 RP in my 4 banger but after I spun a bearing or two, I realized that 20 was too light for my driving style. Now I rock 10w30 in the 69 and it may hurt my mileage, but the way I drive; it's surely negligible. It also gets in the oil ports and squirters. But as Saber said, everything is dependent on the wear of your engine.
 

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I'm not sure why you're defending it so much. Not even Mitsubishi defended 5w-20 for these engines.

But, what small passages in the head?

And castrol edge and GTX are 2 different oils, there isn't edge GTX. Edge is what I ran in my GS until I found that I could ruin it in a half hour of hard use, then I started learning about oils heavily. Edge is Castrol's cheap synthetic that contains only synthetic additives, but is conventional base.
 

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Specifically for the Honda the valve solenoid for the vtech switch likes light oil I assumed the Mitsubishi vvt would need it for similar reasons but other than that under normal use most engine wear is done on start up so the light wieght oil has and easier time getting to the top of the engine
 

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I wasn’t aware the manual called for anything other than 5-20 I never got one with the car I just went with the number on the oil cap and a quick bing check. Thats interesting!
 

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I’ve definitely run it hard on a few trips down 90 we just came back from ny averaging about 100 hitting 120 multiple times. That’s normal speed around here ha I’m not kidding. But yeah we thrash it pretty good! I do change it more than the Honda for sure but the eclipse just hit 76,000 I’ve put about 2000 hard miles on it so far with 2 oil changes that looked good I’ll keep you posted!
 
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