My car has a ticking sound until I push in the clutch pedal. I assume that means my tob is going out and I think I need to just replace the whole clutch since it needs to all be removed anyway. Am I right on this and is so does anyone know where I can get a stage 2/3 for a good price?
i do not own a standard 4g, but many other vehicle's with sticks. usually there should be a removable inspection plate on the bell housing that lets you have a look at the clutch, throw out bearing and fork. That being said, ticking noise's while the clutch is not engaged, is usually the result of a polished fly wheel. That usually happens if it it over greased during maintainace, rear main oil seal leak, or if you are a hard shifter. ie. racing. Also you can check your tranny oil, if it is low you can get some noise comming through the main shaft even in neutral.
Naw it's the tob , these trannies are notorious for the tob chatter. I've been driving with the noise for around 2 years now. It's a 50 dollar part but you have to drop the trans to get to it so like suggested before just wait until you have to do the clutch , so its all done in one shot.
I thought we covered this and it turned out that something wasnt aligned properly? If i remember right it was jhun that figured it out. When i punched a hole in my oil pan i took it to the same shop that did my clutch install and asked them to fix the clicking and they did. Didnt say what the cause was though...
a slight rattle with the clutch engaged is ok, when you can hear it over the engine noise while driving it's about to explode and destroy your clutch...
i have an issue with the tickling noise and its very loud, wanted to see if anyone would know how to drop the entire tranny? it would mean alot ..
thanks
i have an issue with the tickling noise and its very loud, wanted to see if anyone would know how to drop the entire tranny? it would mean alot ..
thanks
disconnect sensor harnesses, shift cables and clutch control components from the transmission.(your intake parts will need to be removed) jack up the front of the car, install jack stands, remove wheels, remove transmission splash guards, disconnect knuckle from strut and anything else that needs to come apart, or off (on my lancer I can leave the ball joint and tie rod connected, and I can even leave the rotors and calipers on the hub) anyway, drain the transmission, take both axles out, unbolt front and rear transmission/engine mounts (and cross member), support motor with a good jack that won't fail or move around too much (use a piece of wood on the jack) and try to keep it level. unbolt side transmission mount from both the car AND the transmission. unbolt the starter bolts, starter dust cover and all other transmission mount bolts, except the top two. now the tricky part (not as bad with two people). remove the top two mounting bolts, the engine and transmission should be mated with dowels, and the input shaft is still in the clutch, so it won't just fall off. get in position to physically handle the transmission (it's quite heavy, about 75lbs, I use my knees, flooring knee pads would work great! otherwise you'll have cuts and bruises) anyway, you need to lower the engine so it's on a downward angle, this is where a buddy comes in handy...he can operate the jack (hopefully without releasing the pressure completely and dropping the engine and transmission on you crushing parts of your body or killing you) and also without damaging the crank pulley. It's very important not to let the crank pulley contact the frame. anyway, then you just pull it off, as it crushes you nuts, and you suddenly have more than enough strength to gently lower it to the ground. (make sure the front of the car is a fair bit off the ground, otherwise you would not be able to get the transmission out from underneath...that's the garage/driveway method, and for me, it's faster and cheaper than disconnecting and draining absolutely everything and pulling the motor and tranny out together with a hoist. (electrical, control harness, fuel supply, anti-freeze, intake and exhaust etc.)
No, the rear main seal is around the part of the crankshaft that protrudes from the block, that the flywheel bolts to. it's not in the oil pan, but just below the crank shaft on the rear (driver side) of the engine, the oil pan contours around the crank. might be a good idea to reform the seal on the oil pan while you're there
yeah, if you have the other flywheel and new gear oil ready to go...especially with your car having so little corrosion, I doubt you'll run into any problems...it's pretty much a 2 man job, so call me if you need a hand. I did it alone once, and I hated my life.
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