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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Folks,

I have been a 4G GS owner since 2006 and was on the forum way back then. The car has never been back to the shop as I do all my own maintenance. I need to get the brake recall done, but that's another story.

I just had my timing belt break on the way to work the other day and of course the valves are bent. I wasn't expecting this since it was done at 70k miles with the Gates kit and now I'm at 120k so it should have still had life in it.

I need to buy a remanufactured head. Anyone have any suggestions of where to get one and/or where to stay away from? I searched threads and didn't see anything.

Also, after the belt broke, when I turn the key to "On", I don't hear the normal clicks under the hood or the fuel pump charging the fuel rail. I'm assuming the timing disaster caused the ECU to lock out the fuel system. Any thoughts on this?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Mike
 

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Mits Man
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Sorry to hear that! I can't offer a whole lot of advice, but your post has me feeling nervous... I just got a Gates timing belt kit installed yesterday (I'm at 102k right now).

Based on this, I'm going to do another timing belt install at 140-145k just to be safe. I heard that Gates was supposed to be the closest you can get to OEM....... but idk now lol
 

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If the timing is off, which it should be now, the ecu will keep the car from starting due crank and cam position sensors. Your best bet is to find a junk yard or ebay for a used head. Either way it's a risk as you don't know if the car it came off of overheated and possibly warped the head. Other option is to buy a re-manufactured head, but the price is much higher.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It’s all disassembled now

I took everything apart today. The timing belt was snapped. The odd thing is the belt looks great. All the teeth are there and no age cracking at all. I am at a loss to explain why it broke way before its life span was up.

I removed the head and the pistons just have very minor marking which I will blend in.

I’m still looking to source a remanufactured head. I’m not going to chance a junk yard head.

Any comments appreciated.

Mike
 

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I took everything apart today. The timing belt was snapped. The odd thing is the belt looks great. All the teeth are there and no age cracking at all. I am at a loss to explain why it broke way before its life span was up.

I removed the head and the pistons just have very minor marking which I will blend in.

I’m still looking to source a remanufactured head. I’m not going to chance a junk yard head.

Any comments appreciated.

Mike
Mileage and years since last timing belt change that you know of? Was harmonic balance belt done ok with it? I4 or V6? Thanks
 

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I took everything apart today. The timing belt was snapped. The odd thing is the belt looks great. All the teeth are there and no age cracking at all. I am at a loss to explain why it broke way before its life span was up.



I removed the head and the pistons just have very minor marking which I will blend in.



I’m still looking to source a remanufactured head. I’m not going to chance a junk yard head.



Any comments appreciated.



Mike


Be wary i bought and did my first tuning belt at 90k miles. When I replaced everything my timing belt ended up being grounded to pieces and ashes lol . Got caught onto the trigger plate. Also found that the crank pulley where timing belt goes that bolt was loose. Make sure all these things are tight and good. Last time this happened to me that was the issue. Got a new entire timing belt kit Gates from rock auto. Been good for about 30-40k miles or so


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi Folks,

I have been a 4G GS owner since 2006 and was on the forum way back then. The car has never been back to the shop as I do all my own maintenance. I need to get the brake recall done, but that's another story.

I just had my timing belt break on the way to work the other day and of course the valves are bent. I wasn't expecting this since it was done at 70k miles with the Gates kit and now I'm at 120k so it should have still had life in it.

I need to buy a remanufactured head. Anyone have any suggestions of where to get one and/or where to stay away from? I searched threads and didn't see anything.

Also, after the belt broke, when I turn the key to "On", I don't hear the normal clicks under the hood or the fuel pump charging the fuel rail. I'm assuming the timing disaster caused the ECU to lock out the fuel system. Any thoughts on this?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Mike
I'm the OP, so to close the loop on this.....my GS is back on the road and running great again. To review: my timing belt (Gates) snapped at 42k miles and of course took out some valves. All the work was performed by me except for the valve job (had 4 bent valves).

Head work and valve job - "The Head Shop" in Virginia Beach
Head Gasket kit includes everything needed including sealant- Felpro
Head Bolts - Mahle
Timing belt kit including: timing belt, balance belt all tensioners and idlers, hydraulic tensioner, & water pump - Continental (Did not do Gates again)
Spark Plugs - OEM NGK
Serpentine belt idler (bearing was bad)
Serpentine belt (looked ok but it was off anyway)
Valve lash adjustment
Coolant Flush - Prestone
Oil Change & Filter - Mobil 1 5w-20
All torques and tensions per the FSM

I spent about $800 in parts and head work.

Oh, and a long skinny magnet to retrieve the feeler gauge I dropped down a coolant passage into the block when adjusting the valves. :eek: If I would have tried to get it down that hole I couldn't have done it. :dunno:

Some points on the timing belt replacement worth noting:
1. Make sure cylinder 1 is at TDC through the spark plug hole.
2. Make sure to get all your timing marks exact.
3. The oil pump can be off 360 degrees even though the mark is on since the balance shaft is internally geared. You can use a screwdriver to probe the block through a bolt hole provided to check the position of the balance shaft, or you can make sure the pulley has a natural tendency to fall towards the timing mark, not fall away.
4. Make sure the right side of the belt is tight and all the slack is taken up on the left side, or your timing will be off when you manually rotate the engine (clockwise only).
4. Recheck the timing after rotation
5. The key to the timing belt is to make sure the belt is tight on the right side and all the slack is taken up on the left side

She started right up and is running fine at 120,000 miles.

Mike
 
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