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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Woops I put this in the wrong area. ;O Sorry!

I am putting this here so anyone looking for help with their Transaxle can come here.

Manual
Tearstone Manual - Automatic Transaxle
Page 23A-4 - Transaxle
Page 23A-401 - REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION <4A/T>
Page 23A-409 - REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION <5A/T>


Tearstone Manual - Automatic Transaxle Overhaul [F4A4B]
Tearstone Manual - Automatic Transaxle Overhaul [F5A5A]

Added on 9/25/19 5:26PM (Not me)-
Tutorials | Instructional Videos prior to performing the job
Instructional video: Engineering Explained - How To Completely Lift A Car On All Four Jack Stands
Instructional Video: EricTheCarGuy - How To Safely Lift and Support Your Vehicle

Instructional Video: ERICSDIYGARAGE - A Fast And Easy Way To Remove A Cv Axle Nut Without Impact tools!
Ratchets And Wrenches - Instructional Video: How to Replace a CV Axle

Instructional Video: Spastic Mechanic - DIY Support Bars
Instructional Video: Engineering Explained -Front Wheel Drive - FWD - Explained

Instructional Video: EricTheCarGuy - The Basic parts of a transaxle
Instructional Video: speedkar99 - How an Automatic Transmission Works (FWD)

Instructional Video: 2CarPros - How to Replace a Clutch and Throw Out Bearing Front Wheel Drive Vehicle | Step by Step!
Instructional Video: michaelovitch - Front Wheel Drive car clutch replacement


Instructional Video: [Easy to understand Video] MANUAL HOW IT WORKS: Transmissions
Quick Ins. Video - Obsessive Hobbies - [MANUAL] 4G Eclipse transmission removal for clutch change
Started at 59 seconds, skipping intro.
Manual 4G 2007 Transmission

Parts
E-Bay [Transaxle Mitsubishi 2.4L 2006]
Rocksauto [Automatic - Transmission]








My car: 4G - 2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.4L GS - Automatic
My Transmission: F4A4B-4-L3Z My issue: Transaxle bellhousing is leaking transmission fluid. [1st Attachment]



I have never done this and from what I've seen in posts and videos, it's quite a job.

[What I have done so far.]​


I'm unable to remove the CV axle from the passenger side Wheel hub. I've tried
  1. Impact driver.
  2. Deadblow Hammer 4LBs
  3. 3 Sided Pulley
  4. Buster lube
  5. Wally World Blow Torch

I've watched many and many videos... I don't have access to a 40ton hydraulic press to remove it from the hub.

Not only that, I can't even remove the damn hub from the ball joint! >.< I am not having a good day today. So any advice would be really appreciated. Thank you.
  • Removed Exhaust pipe and exhaust shield
  • Removed Starter
  • Removed Cables and Shifter Cable
  • Removed so far 1 CV Axle from the HUB but that same one is stuck in the transaxle. (I have been turning it slightly and trying to pry it from a pry spot But... That's giving me some trouble.
  • Strapped the Engine Block



1. Can I remove the transaxle without removing the engine?
1a. Is it safe to do so or would removing both the engine block and transaxle be better.
1, pull just the trans if you just need the trans. It'll save you 8h of work or more
2. I have 1 jack and 2 stands, is that enough to remove the transaxle.
or do I need 1 jack, 1 transmission jack and 4 stands to keep the car leveled.
(If I were to use 2 stands the car is at an angle, maybe causing problems with removing the transaxle?)
2, it'll be fine. The ass end can stay on the ground.
3. What are the things you guys would recommend me fixing/replacing "While I'm at it"?
3, not an auto guy, but trans filter if you want. It's internal though.
4. Do you guys have certain places you could recommend to for parts? E-bay/Amazon/Rocksauto?? [the junkyards nearby don't have any mitsubishi's]
4, RockAuto is alright if you cant get shop rate locally
5. Once I remove the transaxle, what am I looking for? Chips in the bellhousing? Seals/Gaskets?
5, where it's leaking from. It'll probably be at a gasket if it's not the torque converter
6. Are there any tools you would recommend me getting to make the job easier?
6, yes, $10,000 in tools could help. But $250 in tools can get the job done. Just note that the auto trans weighs about 190lbs. The guides for manual transmissions coming out won't warn you about that as the manual is 70lbs
I have called local transmission companies, one told me it would cost 1,800 + tax to do a bench job. Another said 1500, I'm still calling others to see if the price will go down.
7. What do you think about the price? Do you think they are trying to price gouge me or is a bench job really that expensive?
Just got a guy who can do it for 950. LETS see how low we can go wooo lol
7, price depends on what they're actually doing. For reference, I literally scrapped one of those transmissions a couple months ago as they're that worthless, so looking around for a working one is probably the way to go. Check more than just 4g eclipse. Eg, outlanders, lancers, endeavor, 3g eclipse, and a bunch of Chrysler's from 1990 to modern day use variants of that trans.

I will update this post, with a tutorial when I go through the job. Might even make a video tutorial.
 

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Basically Stock
2009 GS Turbo. 2006+2007 GT
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1, pull just the trans if you just need the trans. It'll save you 8h of work or more

2, it'll be fine. The ass end can stay on the ground.

3, not an auto guy, but trans filter if you want. It's internal though. Your trans is not an F5 series btw, it's an F4 something.

4, RockAuto is alright if you cant get shop rate locally

5, where it's leaking from. It'll probably be at a gasket if it's not the torque converter

6, yes, $10,000 in tools could help. But $250 in tools can get the job done. Just note that the auto trans weighs about 190lbs. The guides for manual transmissions coming out won't warn you about that as the manual is 70lbs

7, price depends on what they're actually doing. For reference, I literally scrapped one of those transmissions a couple months ago as they're that worthless, so looking around for a working one is probably the way to go. Check more than just 4g eclipse. Eg, outlanders, lancers, endeavor, 3g eclipse, and a bunch of Chrysler's from 1990 to modern day use variants of that trans.
 

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Woops I put this in the wrong area. ;O Sorry!


I am putting this here so anyone looking for help with their Transaxle can come here.


My car: 4G - 2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.4L GS - Automatic
My Transmission: F4A4B
My issue: Transaxle bellhousing is leaking transmission fluid. [1st Attachment]

[For right now since I haven't started on this job.]
I have never done this and from what I've seen in posts and videos, it's quite a job.

1. Can I remove the transaxle without removing the engine?

1a. Is it safe to do so or would removing both the engine block and transaxle be better.

2. I have 1 jack and 2 stands, is that enough to remove the transaxle.
or do I need 1 jack, 1 transmission jack and 4 stands to keep the car leveled.
(If I were to use 2 stands the car is at an angle, maybe causing problems with removing the transaxle?)

3. What are the things you guys would recommend me fixing/replacing "While I'm at it"?

4. Do you guys have certain places you could recommend to for parts? E-bay/Amazon/Rocksauto?? [the junkyards nearby don't have any mitsubishi's]

5. Once I remove the transaxle, what am I looking for? Chips in the bellhousing? Seals/Gaskets?

6. Are there any tools you would recommend me getting to make the job easier?

I have called local transmission companies, one told me it would cost 1,800 + tax to do a bench job. Another said 1500, I'm still calling others to see if the price will go down.
7. What do you think about the price? Do you think they are trying to price gouge me or is a bench job really that expensive?
Just got a guy who can do it for 950. LETS see how low we can go wooo lol



I will update this post, with a tutorial when I go through the job. Might even make a video tutorial.


Sell it and buy a manual one lol jk jk hope you get it fixed!!! Keep us updated!


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Discussion Starter #4
Pulling the trans

1, pull just the trans if you just need the trans. It'll save you 8h of work or more
When trying to remove the trans out of the car, in order to keep the engine where I want it, do I need to get an engine holder like this?
[Crane] -
7, price depends on what they're actually doing. For reference, I literally scrapped one of those transmissions a couple months ago as they're that worthless, so looking around for a working one is probably the way to go. Check more than just 4g eclipse. Eg, outlanders, lancers, endeavor, 3g eclipse, and a bunch of Chrysler's from 1990 to modern day use variants of that trans.
I have come to the conclusion of removing the trans on my own and repairing the issue. :) I'll save money and know the job was done right.
 

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When trying to remove the trans out of the car, in order to keep the engine where I want it, do I need to get an engine holder like this?
[Crane] -



I have come to the conclusion of removing the trans on my own and repairing the issue. :) I'll save money and know the job was done right.


If I was gonna put stronger better material for the clutch packs and friction disks I would order the one from IPT. Again if I was stuck with the auto Galant. But I’m not since I’m swapping to manual. However I was just going to get their clutch pack rebuild kit that has most of the friction disks and add more for additional capacity. It’s a great company and all the work for 3k done and well prepared with valve body work and all the things they say they would do I rather spend it on a manualGS . I want to attempt an auto rebuild however somewhat scared to mess anything up lol


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2009 GS Turbo. 2006+2007 GT
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Nah. A jack and a piece of wood (between the jack and oil pan) is sufficient. I think I'd honestly prefer the jack, lol. Height adjustable, and the wood makes it softer than a metal bar.

Leave your passenger side mount connected while you do it, and you shouldn't have to fight much
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nah. A jack and a piece of wood (between the jack and oil pan) is sufficient. I think I'd honestly prefer the jack, lol. Height adjustable, and the wood makes it softer than a metal bar.

Leave your passenger side mount connected while you do it, and you shouldn't have to fight much
I've always heard not to lift a jack under the oil pan since it was aluminum.
At least, having the engine weight on the oilpan I think it would kinda start to crush it.
 

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2009 GS Turbo. 2006+2007 GT
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Well, that's wrong for a few reasons.

For one, the 4G69 pan is steel. That doesn't mean it's strong, but most pans aren't actually aluminum. Aluminum pans are thicker to make up for lower strength by volume, however.

For two, I've never had an issue, don't know anyone who actually has, but everyone I've known to do it all use wood under the pan so the load is distributed over a wide area.

Three, when you leave a motor mount still connected, it can still take up some of the weight as it resists the engine being pulled down by gravity
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, that's wrong for a few reasons.

For one, the 4G69 pan is steel. That doesn't mean it's strong, but most pans aren't actually aluminum. Aluminum pans are thicker to make up for lower strength by volume, however.

For two, I've never had an issue, don't know anyone who actually has, but everyone I've known to do it all use wood under the pan so the load is distributed over a wide area.

Three, when you leave a motor mount still connected, it can still take up some of the weight as it resists the engine being pulled down by gravity
Thank you for clearing that misconception up. I appreciate it =] :hail:
 

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No problem.

I've actually done it quite a few times in the last week. I just finished another engine swap with friends (my 4th this year) and we always use wood under the pan when we undo the motor mounts before taking it out with a hoist. We've done it on as small as a 1.8 VW engine and large as a 5.3 Chevy engine. Even a 1.8 VW pan missing one side (hit a railroad spike and was torn out) didn't buckle
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update!

I'm unable to remove the CV axle from the passenger side Wheel hub. I've tried
  1. Impact driver.
  2. Deadblow Hammer 4LBs
  3. 3 Sided Pulley
  4. Buster lube
  5. Wally World Blow Torch

I've watched many and many videos... I don't have access to a 40ton hydraulic press to remove it from the hub.

Not only that, I can't even remove the damn hub from the ball joint! >.< I am not having a good day today. So any advice would be really appreciated. Thank you.
 

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I'm unable to remove the CV axle from the passenger side Wheel hub. I've tried

  1. Impact driver.
  2. Deadblow Hammer 4LBs
  3. 3 Sided Pulley
  4. Buster lube
  5. Wally World Blow Torch



I've watched many and many videos... I don't have access to a 40ton hydraulic press to remove it from the hub.



Not only that, I can't even remove the damn hub from the ball joint! >.< I am not having a good day today. So any advice would be really appreciated. Thank you.


My best bet would be take a deep breath go inside and re-examine. Was the other side as hard, you took out the two shock assembly bolts? I mean I’m not sure what you did on one side but shouldn’t really be any different on the other.


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Driver side cv axle came off without a hitch by hand. Passenger side however. Doesn't want to come off even with tools.







Pin is out? Anything left to remove it? If it’s just stuck I’d say try heat. It’s about the only thing that could prob loosen things up. Mine came off fairly easy and entered fairly easy too. Both on the 07 eclipse I used for swap and the ones off my 12 Galant came off easy too.


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Discussion Starter #15
So earlier today my friend came by and hit the cv axle quite a bit with a sledge hammer.
I don't care because I was going to replace all of it to begin with. And well. The cv axle didn't budge. I wonder what happened with the previous owner to have such an issue on that side of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
What's this item called?

I managed to remove the lower ball joint from this [thing] I don't really know the name nor could I find the name for it. Maybe someone here can tell me the name but I'm also trying to look for it online (rocksauto) for purchase hoping they have it available.



All of the pieces are literally stuck together.

What are the names?
RED:

Apparently both Y and G come together. Awesome.
YELLOW & GREEN: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mitsubishi,2006,eclipse,2.4l+l4,1431916,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing+&+hub+assembly,1636
 

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I managed to remove the lower ball joint from this [thing] I don't really know the name nor could I find the name for it. Maybe someone here can tell me the name but I'm also trying to look for it online (rocksauto) for purchase hoping they have it available.



All of the pieces are literally stuck together.

What are the names?
RED:

Apparently both Y and G come together. Awesome.
YELLOW & GREEN: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mitsubi...&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing+&+hub+assembly,1636


Red: wheel hub assembly
Yellow and green: wheel bearing assembly
And well the CV Axle. That’s the stuck part in there


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Discussion Starter #20
Red: wheel hub assembly
Yellow and green: wheel bearing assembly
And well the CV Axle. That’s the stuck part in there


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I googled "wheel hub assembly" because rocksauto keeps showing me the yellow and green as wheel hub assembly.
and on google it does too. :/ maybe they don't sell it.
 
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