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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm wondering if installing a cold air intake and a gt throttle body on the 2.4l gs would cause me to run lean. If so, do you know the steps it would take for me to get an ecu tune from Alex MrBishi? I am kind of lost I just bought parts for my 4g eclipse but I am hesitant to put anything on if I can't tune it. I know I would need the Tactrix Openport 2.0 to recieve a tune from him. Any tips or suggestions? I messaged him a day or two ago and I'm wondering if he really responds. I can be patient tho 馃槃.
 

Basically Stock
2009 GS Turbo. 2007 Mid Engine GT
Joined
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CAI wouldn't need the tune, but the throttle body will need to be tuned for sure. The best tip for getting a tune is be patient.

As for the GT throttle body, don't waste your money. Nobody has ever done a dyno run showing gains, the math doesn't support there being gains, it'll just make your throttle more twitchy (less throttle pedal motion for more flow, but no increase in maximum flow ability). Beyond that, if you don't port match your intake manifold to it, you'll get a weird whistle from the intake which may actually be indicative of a LOSS of power, as that shows there isn't smooth flow
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
CAI wouldn't need the tune, but the throttle body will need to be tuned for sure. The best tip for getting a tune is be patient.

As for the GT throttle body, don't waste your money. Nobody has ever done a dyno run showing gains, the math doesn't support there being gains, it'll just make your throttle more twitchy (less throttle pedal motion for more flow, but no increase in maximum flow ability). Beyond that, if you don't port match your intake manifold to it, you'll get a weird whistle from the intake which may actually be indicative of a LOSS of power, as that shows there isn't smooth flow
Would you say WRX injectors and RRE headers would be enough to warrant a tune?
 

Basically Stock
2009 GS Turbo. 2007 Mid Engine GT
Joined
7,617 Posts
WRX injectors alone would need a tune, but only to significantly cut fuel flow. Injectors don't add power, they allow you to make more. Your car wouldn't be safely drivable with them not tuned, if it even ran at all (depends which ones. 440cc, it'll run about 40% rich, so idle would be about 9:1, on load would be around 8:1, it may run. 565cc, you'll be dumping nearly double the fuel of stock, it won't run)

Larger injectors are for when you run forced induction, like a turbo, supercharger, or big shot of nitrous (stock will do a 50 shot with bolt on mods and a tune).


Header, a tune is needed to fix the CEL and get maximum gains from it. But it'll drive fine without a tune
 

Basically Stock
2009 GS Turbo. 2007 Mid Engine GT
Joined
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That's alright.

Would you like some guidance on modding the car? It seems like it may be your first. For some background, I do engineering and mechanics for my own vehicles, as well as a professional racing team. I also have a fair bit of track experience, as well as street performance. Beyond that, I also don't think there's a bolt or wire on a 4G Eclipse I haven't touched.

If so, let me know what your idea is for what the car should be, and I can give some suggestions on reasonable ways to get there
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's alright.

Would you like some guidance on modding the car? It seems like it may be your first. For some background, I do engineering and mechanics for my own vehicles, as well as a professional racing team. I also have a fair bit of track experience, as well as street performance. Beyond that, I also don't think there's a bolt or wire on a 4G Eclipse I haven't touched.

If so, let me know what your idea is for what the car should be, and I can give some suggestions on reasonable ways to get there
Yeah I would, I thought about putting headers on but because I'd need a turbo manifold if I were to ever turbo the car so it might be a bit of a waste. But for exhaust I know the axleback sounds the best and is pretty good for the 4g eclipse, other than that I wouldn't know besides maybe TB bypass, I already bought a gt throttlebody for 50 and a spacer for 30 so it didn't run me much but ik people have said it wont amount to much if anything in numbers, only easier to get to WOT without it being WOT but no increased airflow is recorded so eh.
I want to get to around 200HP and then take some weight out of the car, but I've seen some things on how to do that, other than that idk. I am however looking at the pulley!
Anything else that you've seen that is a good mod on our 4g69?
 

Basically Stock
2009 GS Turbo. 2007 Mid Engine GT
Joined
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Turbo is going to be quite a jump in skill level and understanding, so don't worry about that too much right now. In fairness, not much that you do for NA mods translates over to what you'd use with a turbo.

You're not going to hit 200whp, but 200hp at the crank is doable with header, 2.5" exhaust, RRE's underdrive pulley, a cold air intake, and a tune. Lightweight wheels will also help. You should be able to hit about 190whp/210 crank on a healthy bolt on/tuned GS manual, or around 180whp/210 crank on the auto (again, if it's healthy).

However, there are a couple things to keep in mind. A 2.25" exhaust is going to give you a nicer driving quality than the 2.5", as it'll make power across the rev range better. It won't give the same peak horsepower, but will feel faster in most use. As for that pulley, the downside to it is that you lose the damping ability of the stock crank pulley. That adds to crankshaft vibration, and wears the rod and main bearings quicker. It's not like you'll fry a set of bearings in 50,000 miles with it, but your chances of seeing 300k miles on the engine drop quite a bit with one.

Basic easy and streetable, the RRE header, a custom 2.25" exhaust from a local exhaust shop made from MILD STEEL not stainless will sound best at a minimal weight penalty, use a turbo muffler (high flow, but has baffle plates inside still so it isn't straight through), run a resonator if there are no cats, Fastworks tune (expect this to take months, there's a huge demand and literally only 1 tuner), DC Sports cold air intake (easy first mod, makes a neat sound), a hydro shield for that cold air intake (reduces the chances of a wet filter ruining your fun), and you could call things there engine wise.

Suspension wise, ignore the cheap eBay no name brand coilovers, ignore the MaxSpeedingRods, they have a bad track record for seizing up or blowing valves. The cheapest brand I'd say worth considering at all is KSport. They used to be problematic, but they've stepped up their game. If you are gonna go cheaper than that, get good lowering springs. The cheap $100 ones will ruin the drive quality of the car, handling ability, and just aren't safe.

Weight reduction can be as mild or wild as you want. I've got a 2670lb GT, and that involved a lot of cutting and lightweight parts. A lot of people will take out their spare tire and tools as the first weight reduction and get a CAA/AAA membership. That's all fine and good if you're willing to let a flat tire take up 4 hours of your day waiting on a truck, getting towed home, and then swapping to a spare. But it's probably best saved for being put aside at the track. Some weight reducing options that won't hurt day to day life include: Carbon fiber hood/hatch, aftermarket head unit, remove the back seats (if they're unused), lighter battery (but not smaller or lower CCA), cold air intake, coilovers, lightweight wheels, trunk cargo cover. Then you could remove plastic trim panels inside, however some cover sharp edges, and they all quiet down the ride. Could even go as far as to then remove the carpet, headliner, sun visors, dashboard panel, etc. It keeps going and going. Lightweight bucket seats and an aftermarket steering wheel are a poor choice as they remove the airbags from each.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
As for that pulley, the downside to it is that you lose the damping ability of the stock crank pulley. That adds to crankshaft vibration, and wears the rod and main bearings quicker. It's not like you'll fry a set of bearings in 50,000 miles with it, but your chances of seeing 300k miles on the engine drop quite a bit with one.
I'm going to buy that pulley but people have said that the timing belt on it will snap easily or squeak, is there a belt I can buy that will be of better quality?
 

Basically Stock
2009 GS Turbo. 2007 Mid Engine GT
Joined
7,617 Posts
You mean the serpentine belt?

Reason for that is because of burrs and tooling marks on the pulley. If you have a bench grinder with a wire wheel, run the belt face across that to clean it up. If you have a metalworking lathe, put it on and clean it up with some sandpaper


The internal engine wear is what gets me. It's a part that is designed to add power, aka for going fast and presumably going high RPM, that causes excess wear at high RPM. I removed mine. Wouldn't personally run one again. RRE denies it, but everyone who has rebuilt motors with and without it has seen the difference on the edges of the bearings
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Turbo is going to be quite a jump in skill level and understanding, so don't worry about that too much right now. In fairness, not much that you do for NA mods translates over to what you'd use with a turbo.

You're not going to hit 200whp, but 200hp at the crank is doable with header, 2.5" exhaust, RRE's underdrive pulley, a cold air intake, and a tune. Lightweight wheels will also help. You should be able to hit about 190whp/210 crank on a healthy bolt on/tuned GS manual, or around 180whp/210 crank on the auto (again, if it's healthy).

However, there are a couple things to keep in mind. A 2.25" exhaust is going to give you a nicer driving quality than the 2.5", as it'll make power across the rev range better. It won't give the same peak horsepower, but will feel faster in most use. As for that pulley, the downside to it is that you lose the damping ability of the stock crank pulley. That adds to crankshaft vibration, and wears the rod and main bearings quicker. It's not like you'll fry a set of bearings in 50,000 miles with it, but your chances of seeing 300k miles on the engine drop quite a bit with one.

Basic easy and streetable, the RRE header, a custom 2.25" exhaust from a local exhaust shop made from MILD STEEL not stainless will sound best at a minimal weight penalty, use a turbo muffler (high flow, but has baffle plates inside still so it isn't straight through), run a resonator if there are no cats, Fastworks tune (expect this to take months, there's a huge demand and literally only 1 tuner), DC Sports cold air intake (easy first mod, makes a neat sound), a hydro shield for that cold air intake (reduces the chances of a wet filter ruining your fun), and you could call things there engine wise.

Suspension wise, ignore the cheap eBay no name brand coilovers, ignore the MaxSpeedingRods, they have a bad track record for seizing up or blowing valves. The cheapest brand I'd say worth considering at all is KSport. They used to be problematic, but they've stepped up their game. If you are gonna go cheaper than that, get good lowering springs. The cheap $100 ones will ruin the drive quality of the car, handling ability, and just aren't safe.

Weight reduction can be as mild or wild as you want. I've got a 2670lb GT, and that involved a lot of cutting and lightweight parts. A lot of people will take out their spare tire and tools as the first weight reduction and get a CAA/AAA membership. That's all fine and good if you're willing to let a flat tire take up 4 hours of your day waiting on a truck, getting towed home, and then swapping to a spare. But it's probably best saved for being put aside at the track. Some weight reducing options that won't hurt day to day life include: Carbon fiber hood/hatch, aftermarket head unit, remove the back seats (if they're unused), lighter battery (but not smaller or lower CCA), cold air intake, coilovers, lightweight wheels, trunk cargo cover. Then you could remove plastic trim panels inside, however some cover sharp edges, and they all quiet down the ride. Could even go as far as to then remove the carpet, headliner, sun visors, dashboard panel, etc. It keeps going and going. Lightweight bucket seats and an aftermarket steering wheel are a poor choice as they remove the airbags from each.
Hey so I've been looking around at turbo kits and I know the one alex sells is around 3800 which is pretty expensive and I know it isn't his cheapest one but it's always cheaper to do it yourself. I researched a bit about it and I still am but do you know the all components that I would need to make my own turbo kit? I know I'll need the turbo manifold, oil drain and feed line kit with sandwhich plate, don't understand the downpipe if it will need to be custom if im not buying a kit, intercooler, wastegate, and a blow off valve. Been watching a bunch of yt videos and reading around but honestly just looking at them install turbos on their cars and visually learning is pretty good.
 

Basically Stock
2009 GS Turbo. 2007 Mid Engine GT
Joined
7,617 Posts
Yes I know what all is required, I've had a turbo GS for about 4-5 years. Don't expect to come out cheaply though without using used parts. $3800 for a kit isn't bad. And do you have a second vehicle? You probably should, as there's going to be some downtime waiting for a definition file to even run it with a turbo. Or you go with your own ecu solution
 
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