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wanna-be subaru killer.
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Discussion Starter #1
2006 Eclipse GT 3.8L V6 MT

So, I have an intake and exhaust done and originally I was gonna stick to bolt-ons and leave her alone but... then a brand new turbo was gifted to me from a friend who had no use for it. So... now here we are. I have started looking into the measures I need to take and I have seen people saying spacers are necessary and I would be swapping to head studs instead of bolts, I am capable of fabricating my headers and I have a flange to weld on that is compatible with the turbo.

Has anyone done the head spacers previously and successfully as well as where did you get them and how much should I be expecting to pay?

Any tips or information at all is very useful. Thank you!
 

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What do you mean by head spacers? To lower compression? First thing you have to do is change out the pistons. They’ll blew right away. They are shity cast pistons and by far the weakest point In the engine. Plus you can buy lower compression pistons and not worry about spacer.
 

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wanna-be subaru killer.
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Discussion Starter #4
So how much can this motor hold stock. It's a little EJ25 turbo that was given to me and I'm fully capable of making the headers but what precautions do I need to take first? And how much PSI can I push before I need to make some more major alterations to the motor?
 

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Basically Stock
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Consider that TD04 to be useless for a 6G75. It won't make more than a few PSI at the top end, and will be a big exhaust restriction. It's just too small for a V6. Your exhaust temperatures would be crazy high, which is bad for valves and pistons, and it would spike boost on super early, which is bad for the rods

Guys have happily run larger things like a GT35 at 6-10psi on the stock motor and made 400+whp. Look in that direction instead of you want to go turbo, and keep your end goals in mind for performance and functionality.
 

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wanna-be subaru killer.
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Ok, so I could fab headers and mount a GT35 on the stock motor with no alterations other than adding oil lines? I could do the research but I'd rather see what people have done and had work before I start toying around. Any advice you can give me on this would be awesome, still learning the ins and outs of this motor. And obviously I'd need to do a tune for all of this too, any tune or companies for tunes recommendations?
 

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Basically Stock
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Oil lines and coolant lines for the turbo, custom exhaust, custom intake, custom charge piping, different MAP sensor, different fuel injectors, custom tune (Fastworks, you have no other options aside from going standalone ECU).

If you can fab it so the turbo sits above the oil pan but after the two manifolds come together you'd probably be best off. Otherwise it gets fancy with the oil return system needing a pump or even a standalone oiling system for the turbo with its own reservoir.

Fitment really is the most difficult part. Once you figure that out and get the turbo in, you're half way there.
 

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wanna-be subaru killer.
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Discussion Starter #8
But I wouldn't have to mess with head bolts, gaskets, studs, pistons or rods or anything? I'm just kind of surprised that I wouldn't have to build the motor to support that. I mean if it has been done and safely accepted before, I'm open to it, just a little fearful because I don't really have anything to fall back on.
 

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Basically Stock
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Stock 4G69 have seen 340whp as a daily driver. My friend's daily to be specific.

Stock 6G75 have seen 450whp. I don't personally know anyone, but I've seen builds like that. 3si forums have lots of info on 6G75 building, as they swap them into 3000GT and do high power builds

Stock head gaskets are MLS. There is no "upgrade", MLS is for a turbo car. Head bolts won't let go at low boost. Main bolts won't go at low boost. Pistons are fine as long as you don't overheat them or get serious knock. Rods are fine as long as the power hits at a reasonable RPM. Eg, stock turbo, I bent rods at 22psi in my TT. Same engine, my friend has run 26psi in his for 3 years on a turbo making 150hp more. Difference was, I let it hit 22psi at 2800rpm, he lets his hit 26 at 4000rpm.

Run 6psi, and you'll make close to 400whp on a good setup, and not have to worry about it so long as it is tuned well. A bad tune and you can kill the motor without boost. So just think what a bad boosted tune will do.


Take what you see on here with some healthy skepticism. The forum is old, and has had a lot of bad advice over the years. As for fueling, I'm running around 400whp right now on a stock GS fuel pump. So I think your GT will do just fine. I'd like to point out that it's been common belief on here that for a 50 shot of nitrous the GS needs a fuel pump upgrade even
 

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Basically Stock
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It's a fairly small turbo, even for the 4G69. You'd need to induce some lag if you wanted it to make much boost, as it would spike very hard down low otherwise and cause issues.

You could probably get an effective 8psi or so out of it. It's designed for high boost and low flow. You'd be asking a lot more flow than it's made for at lower boost than it's designed to operate at under load. It's a turbo only built to compress enough air for about 300hp. It's a very small turbo. Significantly smaller than what a 2L evo engine gets, because they needed it to spool up semi early on a boxer motor for street driving purposes.

It's the wrong direction to be looking. An OEM evo turbo (TD05) is really easy to get onto your GS, is cheap, and flows significantly more air. But even then, there are better options for a stock motor. My twin scroll 16g (evo turbo) setup with titanium wheels gets to 15psi by 2800rpm in 5th. High EGT and the low RPM (long duration of the high pressure and heat) cause a lot of stress like that. It's too much for me to consider safe

Garett has some journal bearing turbos that can be picked up new for under $1000, and will run up to 500hp. They don't spike too early for stock rods, but aren't crazy laggy either. That with a T3 tubular manifold and you're set. You could probably do a turbo setup with one for ~$2500 and run 340whp before you need to start doing things like a custom MAF housing
 

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wanna-be subaru killer.
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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the help man!

Only because I don't really wanna re-invent the wheel on building manifolds for the turbo, do you know of any that would be halfway good to look into before I start tearing mine apart. I have looked into some other V6 turbo manifolds for like the accords and 350z's but maybe I'm missing something.

I now have 4 turbos I have found in my buddies storage space that could be candidates for Ruby but I haven't decided yet, either way I will probably be replacing the exhaust-side flange and modifying the headers if need be.

I did email fastworks last week but haven't gotten a response yet on my tune.
 

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Basically Stock
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It depends how you want to do it. There isn't really much space for turbos off the manifolds, nor does anyone make turbo manifolds for this car. Almost all turbo 4g GT use rear mounted turbos, similar to how most 350z do

Fastworks is pretty slow to respond generally. It's one person with thousands of customers, and a full time job elsewhere. But it's worth it
 

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You NEED to change your pistons. I was j my running 8psi and the pistons blew and will ruin your entire project. It’s happens to a few in here. Stock rods are thin but forged should be able to handle whatever your going to throw at it. I went alone over killed and replaced everything. In have about 20K into my motor if you can find my build thread in here.

I had a Ripp supercharger. Install it, drove to Canada to have Michael tune it. Finally got home and on the off ramp the pistons blew out. I was pissed. Sold the supercharger and built a super motor. Need any help shoot me an email. [email protected]
 

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Basically Stock
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A richer tune and possibly EGR delete would have dropped cylinder temperatures, which is a possible cause for cracking. Another is knock, which would be less prone on a cooler setup as well.

I know the GS needs an EGR delete when running a turbo. Otherwise cylinder 4 runs hot
 
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