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Willow Spring Racer
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378 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well i figured i would finally start a thread for my turbo build thats slowly getting underway...i'm mainly gonna be drag racing the car across SoCal

i have an HX55 that i'm rebuilding - hopefully with HX52 turbine wheel and housing...it's a monster of a turbo but i should be able to spool it at a decent RPM. like i said its a drag car so the lack of spool at low RPMs will help me reduce a lot of wheel spin, along with the help LSD and E-S bushings throughout. the current exhaust housing has a 5" exhaust outlet :ndance: thats why i want the HX52 housing (its only 4" lol)

i'm using twin 35mm Turboonetics wastegates to control boost to a mild 3-4 psi to start with. The BOV is a Turbosmart Raceport to get rid of all that extra pressure.

A stealthy black Mishimoto FMIC will get mounted in the front bumper.

Now that question everyone has: turbo headers/ manifolds... As i've stated in another thread i've posted in, the turbo is going above the transmission, kinda where the battery is. Having a custom y-pipe fabbed to achieve this using the RRE headers

The battery has been moved to the trunk via a kit i bought from Summit Racing. The car has been gutted pretty much from the front seats back (minus the panels covering the rear speakers/ seatbelt retractors). between the rear seats and everything else that got removed, i've already saved ~100 lbs...

I also got 2 BeCool 2100 CFM pusher fans coming in this week to free up some room in the engine bay (and hopefully save a little weight)

still debating on AEM F/IC or Hackish reflash for the engine management (if he can do that?)

Pics tomorrow (too dark now) and questions/comments/concerns welcome... flaming is none of those 3 things, so i really dont wanna hear it...
 

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the mathematical
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1,793 Posts
You've saved a lot of weight in the back but these cars are already unbalanced front to rear. Not worried about it, or do you have plans to address that? If it's going to be a drag car, no need for air con, depower the steering, don't really need ABS, you could save probably another 60lbs+ up there. What about a roll cage?
 

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Willow Spring Racer
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378 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
on the RRE website, it says stock non-power seats weigh 54lbs a piece!!! thats nuts...working on getting some 20lbs seats. also the battery is now in the back so that took some from the front and added it to the rear. lighter rims should help too. i dont know how much our flywheel weighs but the lightweight one is like 11lbs so...there's a little more

its still gonna be a DD for a while too so i cant depower steering, no Abs and no AC for now but if i ever go all out i definitely will do all that...same goes for the cage...

when i said mainly drag racing i meant thats the only type of racing i'd be doing as opposed to circuit, autocross etc...i should probably rephrase that...

oh and Carbon Fiber everything on the front would help too...CF hatch as well...
 

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Willow Spring Racer
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378 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
anyone know if they use the same radiator for autos/manuals or if they are application specific? like is it the same rad, just with the lines blocked for the manual... i got a great idea for a built-in oil cooler...
 

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the mathematical
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1,793 Posts
My thoughts exactly about the CF. My future plans include a completely CF front end (bumper cover, hood, fenders) with fibreglass the rest of the way (skirts and rear bumper cover). The only reason I'm considering the CF hatch is to lower the center of gravity some more, that hatch weighs as much as a nuclear submarine.

I'm pretty sure the radiator itself is identical on both trannies. Same part numbers for both cars and the FSM doesn't make any distinction.
 

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If you aren't changing your pistons youre wasting a lof money. Im pretty sure you can use Rre headers for your build. For the Mount of feb work need to change the flange will cost more then just selling your Rre headers and starting from scratch...and that if you can make the turbo fit. I've never seen turbo manifolds for this car, Rre pipes meet in the middle But im pretty sure you'll need to pull the pipe one way or another to make the turbo fit. The inlet for a turbo is at the far end of the turbo. If you mount it in the center of the headers you have a lot of wasted space on one side. If you get what I'm saying.
 

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Willow Spring Racer
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378 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you aren't changing your pistons youre wasting a lof money. Im pretty sure you can use Rre headers for your build. For the Mount of feb work need to change the flange will cost more then just selling your Rre headers and starting from scratch...and that if you can make the turbo fit. I've never seen turbo manifolds for this car, Rre pipes meet in the middle But im pretty sure you'll need to pull the pipe one way or another to make the turbo fit. The inlet for a turbo is at the far end of the turbo. If you mount it in the center of the headers you have a lot of wasted space on one side. If you get what I'm saying.
i get what you're saying. in my original post, i said i'm using a custom fabbed y-pipe...not the most efficient, i know, but i'm sure it will work just fine for my application of very minuscule boost amounts at this time...already in the process of finding another 6g75 to build internally on the side...i just wanna get the complicated stuff worked out of the way first...

i'm prepared for flaming/constructive criticism but i'm sticking to my plan as of this time...
 

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Don't use a FIC, hopefully Hackish or RRE gets the flash done asap
 

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Willow Spring Racer
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378 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just trying to help. I'll be doing the same setup. Im working I the opposite direction. Motor first.
I understand you are trying to help...not trying to argue or anything...

Don't use a FIC, hopefully Hackish or RRE gets the flash done asap
That's what I was hoping for...a lot cleaner...
 

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Willow Spring Racer
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378 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ok so...gutted trunk w/ battery:


will get pics under the hood of the extra room and new fans eventually...workin 12s nonstop and dont get off until its getting dark outside so maybe this weekend...gotta love being a crew chief!

got coilovers too...will post lowness pics as well...
 

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Get some more pictures up, maybe I'll see an idea or two for my build... I should have some new pics up Friday night after I play with the stuff UPS brings me.
 

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The O.G.
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5,332 Posts
Don't use a FIC, hopefully Hackish or RRE gets the flash done asap
the fi/c is more than enough if it isn't a fully built, purpose race car. the HP leader of the forum runs an fi/c, i run one, RRE runs one. it's fine.

there still is no info/proof as to hack mapping for boost from what i have seen. i'd be willing to test for him but im not dropping that amount of money to 'guess' at things.
 

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The O.G.
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5,332 Posts
One of you please produce TT manifolds!!
if all you want is a set of manifolds, jason is starting from scratch on my single turbo manifolds, let me make sure he didn't cut them up and i will sell you my set.

no promises.
 

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The O.G.
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5,332 Posts
as for the turbo builder guy, do what's in your capability and budget. 4psi on this motor makes good power.

if you havent already, you NEED to get coilovers and an LSD. that what is keeping my running a 13.5 when i am trapping fast enough to be in the 12 second range.

you really dont need that much turbo for such low boost, but like you said, it will not spool like mine does and give you supercharger style torque, which is fun but not so productive on street tires.

as for clutch/flywheel; get a solid clutch but if you are daily driving and drag racing, i would keep the stock flywheel. you will get better off the line response with the added inertia from the bigger mass flywheel. light flywheels dont carry as much kinetic energy once they hit the clutch face and try to turn the tires. they are cool for road racing when your rpm's are always up high. driving around with a light flywheel in traffic is kinda annoying sometimes too, especially if you have a nasty instagrab clutch, i stall mine due to the instagrab about twice a month.
 

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Take 3 lbs off the stock flywheel and you'll be happy. Put an 11lb unit in there it's not going to be that fun to drive. With turbo you need a good clutch so it will really bite.

One other thing besides injectors, you'll need a big MAF, Minimum of 3.5". I ran a 3" on a supercharged car this fall and it ran out at 8psi. You also need a minimum straight run for the MAF, 5-6" after and about 12" before. Omni 3 bar MAP sensor as well.

It seems to me everyone is boosting their eclipse this year. I've had 3 calls and 1 PM about it so far this week.

-Michael
 

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Take 3 lbs off the stock flywheel and you'll be happy. Put an 11lb unit in there it's not going to be that fun to drive. With turbo you need a good clutch so it will really bite.

One other thing besides injectors, you'll need a big MAF, Minimum of 3.5". I ran a 3" on a supercharged car this fall and it ran out at 8psi. You also need a minimum straight run for the MAF, 5-6" after and about 12" before. Omni 3 bar MAP sensor as well.

It seems to me everyone is boosting their eclipse this year. I've had 3 calls and 1 PM about it so far this week.

-Michael
boost is not only addictive, but also contagious...
 
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