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Forum FYI: Upgrades Needed for a Fully Built 4g Eclipse

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47K views 160 replies 33 participants last post by  flamey1792  
#1 · (Edited)
Hello all, here is a thread I thought I'd throw up in case anyone is interested in what it will take to fully build your motor. It was made w/ the 6G75 in mind, but most will certainly apply to the 4 cylinder motor. We will add and modify as guys who are smarter then me post up and correct and add. This will be "living" post and constantly modified on post #1 as people add info to it. Of course there are similar threads about where to start modding, or a specific part of the build, etc. - but the sole intent of this post is for someone looking to fully build their motor and with out boost or nitrous at this time. No visual, style, or audio modifications are included - this is a performance only thread.

General Advice for Improving Performance (or any modification to your car):
  1. Research, research, research. Make sure you understand the modification, why it works the way it does, and WHAT ELSE it may require - i.e., other modifications that may go along with it.
  2. Be shrewd with money.
  3. Be Patient with your plans/desires/wants.
  4. Understand the trade-off or inverse relationships between various aspects of modifications. I.e. - stiffening your suspension will make performance GO UP, but will also make your ride comfort GO DOWN. Nearly everything has some sort of trade off that you should be aware of.
  5. Maybe most importantly, especially w/ performance modifications. ---> Do it right the first time.

This thread was started with the idea of primarily building an Naturally Aspirated (N-A) or ALL MOTOR platform; - it has since been expanded to include lists for Nitrous, Supercharging, or Turbo applications, which are mentioned at the bottom in Sections #5 & #6.

I tried to break it down into a few sections - MUST HAVE (#1), Highly Recommended (#2), Recommended for more power to the ground (#3), and smaller items that will add up to big gains if you can get them done (#4), Forced Induction Components (#5), Nitrous Components (#6).

so here we go...........

# of "*" next to the entry is the mechanical skill level required to install the part:
* = Very Easy, should be able to do by yourself w/ decent instructions.
** = Some modding experience recommended, but still do-able for the average gear head.
*** = Not recommended for anyone who does not have at least a year or two experience working on cars.
**** = Major mechanical job, recommended to be done by a professional mechanic or supervised by someone who has this level of skill.
======================================================================

#1) For over 400 or 500 WHP - MUST HAVE COMPONENTS:

  • Forged pistons....$700 - $1000****
    + machine work (bore +1mm).....$150 - $300 - use of torque plate for 6G75 recommended; only 1 in existence;
    must rent from joeyb, or make your own.
  • Forged Connecting Rods w/ top end fasteners (should come with the rods)........$550 - $800****
  • Valves, Springs, Retainers, Lifter Package from Delta Cams.....$400****
    + machine work (debar Intake manifold & port n' polish).....$300 - $550***
  • Bearing Package..$300 - $450****
  • ARP head studs/bolts...................$250***
  • Gasket Package - preferably high-end product w/ strong material end to hold max power***
  • Headers - either shorties or long-tubes (RIPP, OBX, or RRE) *Note: Long Tubes REQUIRED for Forced Induction**
  • Cat-Back System - the very best you can afford recommended. 2.5" for most, but 3" if you are eventually going FI.**
  • Cold Air Intake (CAI) or Short Ram Intake (SRI) ......$150 - $275 (for N/A cars)*
  • Forced Induction - Supercharger / Turbo - see section #5 below.****
  • Nitrous Package - see section #6 below. - won't achieve this level of WHP w/out this or an FI system.***
  • Need all components from section #2 below.

#2) For ~300 - 400 WHP HIGHLY RECOMMENDED COMPONENTS:

  • Limited Slip Differential "pozzy" ......$900 from RRE; expensive w/ another $500 - $600 to install (if getting clutch, install at the same time)****
  • Clutch Stage 3 at least, Stage 4+ ideal; this will be an enormous upgrade that will take your car up a level...$900 - $1100****
    [*]Coilovers........$900 for D2s - which are bad to the F*cking bone, but there are several selections - Megan, BC, TEIN, etc.**
  • Oil Cooling System ~$250; will be universal and require fabricated mounting. I have mitsimoto and the install is not bad at all**
  • Rebored Throttle body: from 65mm to 67mm - allows more flow (would send your TB away to a company that does this for GT)***
  • GS can add a GT Throttle Body for a few more ponies.**
  • 3-Angle Valve Job (by Delta Cams) - Part of Port N Polish Work****
  • Welded/Re-Grinded Cams to fit a boost Profile (by Delta Cams)***
  • Oversized, Coated, Stainless Steel Valves/Springs/Retainers***
  • Entire Heads Cleared & Honed (part of P N P work, by Delta Cams) - $2500: whole head work package & new valve components.***
  • upgrade Fuel Delivery System***
  • Walbro 225 Fuel Pump OR Evo X pump (direct replacement)......$125 - $200**
  • 565cc 'Pink' (Subaru) Injectors (or Blues if GS) ...~$110 per injector**
  • Fuel Pressure Regulator....~$100 - $225**
  • AEM F/IC 6 + Harness to advance timing and dial in fuel curve.........$1000 all parts, install w/ tune (must also have wideband o2 sensor + Air/Fuel Ratio gauge)** --OR--
  • ECU Reflash by Hackish (C4G Member) or Stayer....$500 (requires Tactrix Openport 2.0 Cable - $170)
  • High Performance Street Tires................$750 - $900*
  • Re-flash of ECU to remove speed/rev limits - done by Hackish or G'reddy device***
  • Crank Shaft Upgrade - Special Note: the crank on the 4g is most likely tough enough to take anything 99% of members are going to throw at it, hence it is not in section #1. If you have the money and want to do it, when your motor is apart and being built is the time to do so. This will be expensive and most likely a sourced job as there are none market-ready that I know about. You will also need to balance the engine if you do this - shop work that will not be cheap either. Again - this is probably NOT needed for most of us.****
  • Engine Balancing Work - done by a tuner shop when your re-build your engine and must be done if you install a new crank. This may actually be considered 'Must Have' on some builds, if you are doing pistons, rods, etc.****
  • Need all components from section #3 below.

#3) For 275 - 350 WHP builds - ALL other suspension & various upgrades:
  • Ingalls ETD "Stiffy"*
  • Stiffer Bushings by Energy Suspension
  • Motor Mounts (anti roll)**
  • Small Central Member bushings (come w/ the motor mount kit)*
  • Front Control Arm bushings**
  • Rear Control Arm bushings*
  • Rear Sway Bar Bushings (most aftermarket packages, like Eibach, come with these already)[/INDENT]*
  • After Market Anti-Roll Bars:
  • Tanabe Front Tower Bar*
  • Tanabe Under-strut Bar*
  • Front Sway Bar (Eibach Anti-Roll Kit)***
  • Rear Sway Bar (Eibach Anti-Roll Kit)*
  • Whiteline Endlink Upgrades - heavy duty and bad ass; buy the ones for the EVO X, and they will fit.*
  • lowering springs / shocks (if you don't have coilovers (listed above))**
  • Upgraded Brakes - Big Brake Kit from Brembo, Stop Tech, or the like**
  • Slotted or Drilled Rotors**
  • Grounding Kit - can be done 'homemade' style. Do this when you have modified your electronics load a lot, i.e. - added gauges, etc.*
  • All items from section #4 below HIGHLY Recommended.

#4) Many smaller upgrades that will add up in the end:
  • Short Shifter Kit + Aluminum or hardened shifter base bushings (these make a big difference)**
  • Upgraded Under-drive Pulley (GS Only)*
  • Thermoblock Intake Spacers**
  • Upgraded Spark Plugs (Usually 1-step colder Iridium by NGK - some may want Pulstars if not going w/ Nitrous or FI)*
  • Oil Catch Can*
  • Throttlebody By-Pass Mod*
  • Remove any restrictive exhaust pieces in the pipe (resonators, silencers, non-essential cats, poor quality bends, etc.)*
  • Steel braided lines when and wherever possible. (oil, fuel, vacuum, brakes)*
  • Water Wetter*
  • Voltage stabilizer: (see next two products for a good set-up)**
  • Plasma Lift Coil Enhancement by Okada Projects**
  • Weapon R Ignition Equalizer Kit (for negative side of coils)**
  • Octane Booster or Pure Race Gas (hard to find in some locals).*
  • Highest Quality Oil Filter you can buy*
  • Royal Purple products in all systems as appropriate*
  • Heat wrap for exhaust pipes*
  • Best clamps, couplers, hardware possible*
  • weight reduction - remove seats, spare tire, jack, etc.*
  • racing steering wheel**
  • harness bar / roll cage (serious track/drag only)**
  • Fabricated Air Scoop that aims air from the front of the car into the air filter (this would have to be "home-made")**


#5) Components / Parts Needed for Forced Induction
(Won't get to over 400 HP w/out either a Nitrous System or Forced Induction of some kind...so pick your poison.)
  • IMPORTANT NOTE: Almost all major upgrades listed above will be needed to reach the maximum capacity produced by a Forced Induction System - especially the internals and cooling (if going over ~ 8 - 12 lbs), and suspension and drive train upgrades to get the power to the ground on our difficult FWD platforms.
  • Supercharger Kit - Tuners' Kit by RIPP is best option at this point. This is a Vortech Blower w/ a good drive shaft and stage I, II, or III pulley w/ needed piping.*** to ****
  • Turbocharger Kit - None specifically designed for the 4g as of this writing. It CAN be done if you can get a turbo manifold fabricated, and get your fuel control working with either a piggy back system (AEM F/IC 6 or 8) or a stand-alone management system.*** to ****
  • Fuel Control System will CERTAINLY be needed. Re-tuned by shop recommended. Again - AEM F/IC 6 or 8 is a good option. Will most likely need to retard timing at the higher end. TUNE - Retard Timing as boost increases/goes up!***
  • Upgraded Fuel Delivery REQUIRED. (Includes Pump, Injectors, Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, Steel Fuel Lines Recommended)***
  • Boost Controller**
  • Decompression Kit**
  • Front Mounted Intercooloer (FMI) for anything above 10 lbs. of boost - and necessity on Turbo (due to the heat).**
  • Blow-Off Valve*
  • Waste-gate (sized for turbo)*
  • By-Pass Valve (used mainly for superchargers)*
  • Heat shield for Turbo*
  • Turbo Timer**
  • SECTION UNDER CONSTRUCTION....

#6) Components Needed for Nitrous Set-Up
  • NOTE: As in section #5, if you are going to go larger then a 75 shot of nitrous, it will be a good idea, if not mandatory depending on high you go, to make most of the major upgrades mentioned in sections #1 - #4.
  • Bottle of Nitrous (Wet Delivery - Into Fuel Line)
  • Bottle of Nitrous (Dry Delivery - Mist Into Intake piping)
  • TUNE - Retard Timing as Nitrous comes on at the top end!
  • Nitrous Controller (various options here - arm switch, safety settings, etc.)
  • Purge Package / System
  • Bottle Warmer
  • Remote Bottle Opener
  • SECTION UNDER CONSTRUCTION........

*Final Notes: You'll need to have your engine 'balanced' if you replace the crank and double checked if you replace the rods and pistons - check for clearances, and specs from the service manual. Then once the F/IC is installed you'll need to have it tuned on a dyno to see max gains - unless you live next to BrianJ, of course.

**Again, this list will be upgraded and modified as appropriate. I was also going to try to credit each part with the member who brought it to the forum originally and made it to this list - but that was WAY to tedious. I wanted to add a side note to each briefly explaining what each does, but that also was tedious. I figured we can discuss that on the thread if anyone is interested in further information on the part/production/location and how to get it, etc. How hard it is to install, etc.

***Most of us will dream about having all this stuff on here - it's awesome, sweet, cool, intimidating, tough, drives the girls crazy, commands respect form gear heads who are shrewd with kind words and respect, etc....it's also VERY VERY VERY expensive. So most will need to plan a budget on what they want to actually spend in the end, and how fast will be fast enough for them. But that is also what the forum is here for - you can get opinions and direction for the future, and find out about new great products that can help our cars.

So anyway guys, post up corrections and additions and we'll get this list fine tuned and complete.

Here are some more EXCELLENT Threads for your reference:

Maintenance, Parts, & Engine Build Info: :naughty:

Tuning & Electronics: :confused:


Intake & Exhaust Info: :bigthumb:

Suspension Info: :timja:

Clutch & Drivetrain Info: :woohoo:

Nitrous Info: :drool:

Forced Induction Rides:

Image

*In this pic you can see a forged piston at the top, a forged h-beam rod w/ APR fasteners, as well as 2 packages of bearings on either side. Will allow for much more HP to be produced and held by the 6G75 engine.
 
#33 ·
That list is the majority of it. When rebuilding a you'll need valve seats, every gasket(not just head gaskets), nuts, bolts, hoses, connectors, clamps, couplers, and the list goes on for ever. Get your main parts above prices out, add $500 in miscellaneous stuff and 1000s in labor. Theres no such thing as a full list. The list keeps going until you're done...just letting you all know. Being in the middle of my third build, you'll spend twice of what you budget.
 
#35 ·
that's why this list exists, to help people, prevent them from paying for shit that's not needed.. maybe give direction, so they don't over spead..

the biggest thing I can offer is.. do it right the first time.

also, maybe Joey, you can hot link to the sites where you can buy the stuff.. like if you click the price, it takes you to the site/part
 
#36 ·
The title should read Upgrades needed for a fully build Eclipse.... because you have strayed away from the "motor" component.. you don't NEED suspension mods for your motor to be built..


#3) ALL other suspension & various upgrades: (should be Suspension/chasis bracing)

shocks and springs/coilovers
roll cage




also, seats are a misc upgrade... less weight, more support.. also, a REAL harness bar, and harnesses. NOT just for looks. steering wheel upgrades..
 
#38 ·
ok cool man thanks. got those in there. I'll fix the title.

yeah, got away from the all-motor thing b/c guys kept asking about FI components...so I added those, and well, you see where it went from there.

THANKS AGAIN TO ALL WHO HAVE CONTRIBUTED TO THIS LIST.
 
#45 ·
depends on the deal you get....I got a good price from Pat, but have to replace a bunch of parts on it b/c it's damaged. Also - shipping is no joke w/ something this heavy....I paid over $375 to ship
 
#46 · (Edited)
so i can order any 6G75 and throw it in no matter if its a manual or auto. What about a evo engine...and leaving it FWD. (just food for thought). I mean WHAT IF i cant find a used 6G75 but other engines can fit into our car...for example a 4G63.

Could i poosible throw that into the car and leave it FRD or do i have to make it AWD.

Just trying to make more posibilities happen. I mean they did throw a ralliart engine in our cars for the auto show. I know evo engines are more plentiful than ours.
 
#49 ·
^probably not an impossible job, but could be tougher then we'd think. getting the transmission to mate, maybe fabricate/modify the engine mount points, exhaust lining up and all that - who knows.
 
#55 · (Edited)
Pictures for Reference:

Pictures of various parts, hope they help.

Rods:
Image

Image


Pistons:
Image

Image


Racing Coilovers by D2 (1 of several options for the 4g):
Image

BC Coilovers:
Image


AEM F/IC 6 + Harness & Wide-band o2 sensor + AFR Gauge
Image

Image


Subaru 565cc Pink Injectors (Direct Swap):
Image


Oil Cooling Unit by Mitsimoto:
Image


Oil Catch Can by Megan Racing:
Image


Ingalls Engine Torque Dampener (ETD) "Stiffy":
Image

Image


Eibach Anti-Roll Kit:
Image

Image


Outlaw intake spacer kit (keeps the Intake Manifold Cooler - Cooler Air):
Image


Various Bushing Kits:
Image


Upgraded Motor Mounts/Roll Stops (10x better then OEM):
Image

Image

*These are HIGHLY recommended for anyone adding performance.

Walbro 225 fuel pump:
Image
 
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#63 ·
hey guys. i have a 07 gs. with few modds (cai,obx headers&downpipe,obx test pipe,magnaflow exhaust and lowering springs) my next steps i want to do it throttle body and intake maniflod but i can not seem to find it anywhere. iv looked and reasearched like crazy. if anyone happens to know where i can find these two parts i would really appreciate it. thank you :)
 
#64 ·
^you can put on a GT OEM TB and get it upgraded by Pro Flow.. ask Daxeth or DarksideEclipse for assistance if you still can't find it. that's a part I do not have. you just need to find one - may have to order from the dealership if you can't find one for sale or at a junk yard.

as far as upgrading the INTAKE MANIFOLD...I don't know of an upgrade for that part....anyone care to chime in? that is once piece of the car that I do not think an upgrade has been made for. you could 'port and polish' your OEM one, tho - do 'port matching' for a few extra ponies.
 
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