I would do the water wetter, and a bigger radiator like RRE has. Also look for a High Flow thermostat, you don't need to go lower, just something that flows better.

As far as your headers go... I would tell you to get them JetHot coated, but that would involve taking them off and shipping them to the states, and I'm sure you don't want to do that, so I would say do the next best thing.... wrap them!

When you do get your headers from RRE get them JetHot coated! It is the best thing for me. The headers look brand new and it keeps temps down.

And yes the Meth would help also.

 

Thank you,

I am waiting for the Water Wetter bottles. They are coming from the USA. Regarding larger radiator, it isnt that easy to find who can custom-build one for my car over here. Thats why it would be better if RRE or any other shop could provide a larger radiator.

I have tried to order a short header from RRE, but Mike told me he is out of them currently. When he is ready, I will check if he can send it to JetHot coating before shipping to Brazil. For my current (ripp) header, I may try some kind of coating available here (ceramic coating). It doesnt have the same properties and quality of those found in USA, but is a quick option for the next trackday.

Regards,
Ziki

 

Ya dude you can also get them wraped like jeep said its cheap and somthing you can do yourself. I also agree with the radiator thing but besides going bigger you can also look for a double pass radiator. As far as the oil cooler and the radiator you can place them behind the passanger side fog light and remove that light on race day. I know you can also raise the hood like you stated but with the addation of hood pins you can raise the front just a bit and get a current flowing across the intake manifold and helping remove hot air from the engine bay. And RRE has manifolds on hand as far as I know, I just got mine delivered a few days ago.

 

well i dont know what kind of exhaust you have! but if you still have that third car sitting there then put a test pipe and get rid of that fucker!

 

You can always run 3" ductwork like the RRE car has for the brakes, only shoot the outlet right into the engine bay or something. So basically you're scooping air from under the car and funneling it back into the engine to cool it off.

 

If your going to be shooting more air into the engine bay, you'll need a open hood that flows the hot air out and lets the cool air in.

 

No hood...if not raining. :runaway: But seriously cf rspec might benefit u.

 

You could benefit from installing the oil cooler and you should also look into a tranny cooler. You can get a universal Mishimoto one from Evasive Motorsports - Your Source for Import Automotive Performance Parts for pretty cheap. I know I'm gonna get both coolers for my car. Every little bit helps.

 

I have a tranny cooler (which comes with the SDS kit). But I havent installed it since I havent discovered a good place to install it. I would think about putting it behind fog lights, but I already use such "hole" for brake air coolers:

Maybe I should "split" the air flow between an oil cooler and brake ducts in one side ...and between a tranny cooler and brake ducts the other side. Any idea regarding another place to install such extra coolers?

thank you,
best regards,
Ziki

 

Here u go!!

The mod GT hood has good heat exits just so damn ugly. :lol:

 

Just another thought, you could rig up a radiator sprayer. Reroute the windsheild washer sprayer to spray on the radiator during hot laps. Mix water and ethanol 50/50

 

Good idea. Thank you.

 

Nice. Now that rspec hood is twice more attrative. Now I will start the hard work of finding an online shop who ships to Brazil

Thank you,
Best Regards,
Ziki

 

ight people may flip out on this but here it is

meth injection even though its for boosted cars some people say it can cool down a engine to a degree


seafoam it clean out your engine pretty damn well and safe your engine now has a better chance of getting cooler air


cold air intake -more hp more tq more cooler air some argue the cai is all hype since the colder air gets hot quickly in the I.M but i don't believe that.


theres others these are just mine.

 

If your going to track race your car, they won't let you spray water or meth on your radiator/intercooler.

It will get on the track and cause other cars to slip. that is a good way to get kicked out of the race!

 

Also, don't waste your time spraying something on those headers. Just get the wrap and that will be better and easier.

 

Hmmmm... great question, Ziki

First off, I've heard problems with Water Wetter. Some say it tends to gunk up the radiator, so be VERY careful, or at least do some background research on this first - see what people have to say about it. That said, have you even tried a radiator flush solution, followed by pressure-flushing? A clean radiator may not be the same as a larger, more efficient one - but it might still be worth a shot if you just need a quick fix

Now as far as coatings on headers, ceramic coating will be better than running plain exposed steel. Again, since you're in a place where, I assume, services such as these would be *much* cheaper, why not go for it? You can still also wrap after.

Now, Carl (horseeater) had the right idea by a radiator shroud. That is, allowing the maximum amount of airflow to flow through the radiator fins. We've got sufficient air dam volume going through the front, but ensuring that every bit of that air goes through the intended path and not to that of least resistance will help. Shroud not just the top but the sides. All the way to the rad support

Finally, as far as your meth system and cooling your intake temps, have you considered using phenolic intake gaskets/spacers? 360jeepboy and several others have invested in this and stand by these. It's definitely one way of keeping intake temps isolated from a hot engine.

Finally, what you said about underbonnet temps CANNOT be farthest from the truth! :bigthumb: The Cyclone engines have always been massive heat generators, and vented hoods aren't, I should say, beneficial only to turbo/supercharged applications. Vent to the front, and toward the firewall, if you can. Every ounce of trapped heat will help temper things down a bit.

Now, here's something a little ricer and :2003:, but...

I know it's intended for intercooled applications, but remember that an intercooler is nothing more than an air-air radiator. An intercooler spraying system such as this (standard in the CT9A Evo) installed over a radiator will also help keep those water temps at bay, in a way that's very similar to hosing down an overheating radiator with hose water and watching the temps dip drastically back to normal. A good, cheap, and safe solution for such a system would be a mix of alcohol and water.

Good luck!

How bout a cryo kit? A kit that blows co2 in the intake, def would drop the intake temp

All good ideas also aluminum radiator

 

Hmmmm... great question, Ziki

First off, I've heard problems with Water Wetter. Some say it tends to gunk up the radiator, so be VERY careful, or at least do some background research on this first - see what people have to say about it. That said, have you even tried a radiator flush solution, followed by pressure-flushing? A clean radiator may not be the same as a larger, more efficient one - but it might still be worth a shot if you just need a quick fix

Now as far as coatings on headers, ceramic coating will be better than running plain exposed steel. Again, since you're in a place where, I assume, services such as these would be *much* cheaper, why not go for it? You can still also wrap after.

Now, Carl (horseeater) had the right idea by a radiator shroud. That is, allowing the maximum amount of airflow to flow through the radiator fins. We've got sufficient air dam volume going through the front, but ensuring that every bit of that air goes through the intended path and not to that of least resistance will help. Shroud not just the top but the sides. All the way to the rad support

Finally, as far as your meth system and cooling your intake temps, have you considered using phenolic intake gaskets/spacers? 360jeepboy and several others have invested in this and stand by these. It's definitely one way of keeping intake temps isolated from a hot engine.

Finally, what you said about underbonnet temps CANNOT be farthest from the truth! :bigthumb: The Cyclone engines have always been massive heat generators, and vented hoods aren't, I should say, beneficial only to turbo/supercharged applications. Vent to the front, and toward the firewall, if you can. Every ounce of trapped heat will help temper things down a bit.

Now, here's something a little ricer and :2003:, but...

I know it's intended for intercooled applications, but remember that an intercooler is nothing more than an air-air radiator. An intercooler spraying system such as this (standard in the CT9A Evo) installed over a radiator will also help keep those water temps at bay, in a way that's very similar to hosing down an overheating radiator with hose water and watching the temps dip drastically back to normal. A good, cheap, and safe solution for such a system would be a mix of alcohol and water.

Good luck!

 

Hmmmm... great question, Ziki

First off, I've heard problems with Water Wetter. Some say it tends to gunk up the radiator, so be VERY careful, or at least do some background research on this first - see what people have to say about it. That said, have you even tried a radiator flush solution, followed by pressure-flushing? A clean radiator may not be the same as a larger, more efficient one - but it might still be worth a shot if you just need a quick fix

I will research about Water Wetter. Anyway, it will be useful at least to my 2Gs I have already done a full radiator clean (with a cleaning product + flushing) in a specialized shop. I have replaced the 50% cooling liquid for a 40% one. I havent raced it yet, since then. I hope this helps too.

Now as far as coatings on headers, ceramic coating will be better than running plain exposed steel. Again, since you're in a place where, I assume, services such as these would be *much* cheaper, why not go for it? You can still also wrap after.

The only place I have discovered that do such ceramic coating here, doesnt do a good job according to my friends. So, the wrapping would be the only option. I will change the header to a RRE short header. I will try to JetHot coating it before shipping.

Now, Carl (horseeater) had the right idea by a radiator shroud. That is, allowing the maximum amount of airflow to flow through the radiator fins. We've got sufficient air dam volume going through the front, but ensuring that every bit of that air goes through the intended path and not to that of least resistance will help. Shroud not just the top but the sides. All the way to the rad support

Good idea. Will check if horse eater still have these to sold.

Finally, as far as your meth system and cooling your intake temps, have you considered using phenolic intake gaskets/spacers? 360jeepboy and several others have invested in this and stand by these. It's definitely one way of keeping intake temps isolated from a hot engine.

I have these already. Have raced 3-4 times, and still have heating issues.

Thank you for the intercooler idea. I will consider all the options.

Best regards,
Ziki

 

Jeep with water and alkey they should still allow it at the track. Its not a viscus substance like coolant or oil and in the fine mist its sprayed in should all but evaporate before it even hits the track. I know the track close (hour and a half away) to me is a simple circut but they allow sprayers so long as its straight water. But Ziki check the track rules any way to be sure. Wouldn't want to disgrace the 4G by being banned

 

Have you done the TB Bypass? It'll help out a little and it may be enough with everything else you have. Fluid coolers, header wrap, phenolic spacers, TB spacer, and vented hood will help out a lot as well.

 

Damnit, why do I always miss reading posts. Didn't see that a radiator sprayer was already recommended. :noplease:

I really should stop skimming long threads and instead read!

 

How bout a cryo kit? A kit that blows co2 in the intake, def would drop the intake temp

 

Hmmm well strap supersaiyjin to the hood and he'll blow on your engine.....I dunno lol

 

^ LOL. Messed up.

 

As far as oil I would go with Royal Purple. I personally have never seen a test that proves those additives work. I have seen plenty that prove they don't do squat. Placebo IMO

 

I use the purple juice...does good

 

when ur about to race! turn the knob of the A/C to the heater seting but dont turn it on, that will cause for the vents to open and for the hot air to escape!

 

Carl would be all over this if he wasnt up in alaska right now so i'll try and add my 2 cents. the water wetter isn't as safe as the maker would like you to think so i wouldnt go with that at all. Royal purple is a great motor oil but the additional cooling properties are negligable (i still run it though).

First, if you look at the back of your hood (the part closest to the windshield) you'll see a line of weather stripping, removing the stripping will allow better air flow around the engine while driving and allow the air to escape at the back of the hood without having to raise the back of the hood by some other means and you wont need to buy a new hood. This is an old-school fix for getting heat out from under the hood but it works (just ask RX7 owners)

Second, adding the radiator shroud the Carl made will help focus more air towards the radiator, but you'll want to make sure that the shroud completely covers the gap between the radiator and the frame.

Third, the best cooling mod that i've seen thus far is replacing the pull-style radiator fans with a set of low profile push-fans that mount on the front of the radiator instead of the back, they force a LOT more air through the radiator there-by increasing the cooling efficiency of the stock radiator. In addition the additional space in the engine bay will allow for better air circulation under the hood. You'll have to talk to RRE or you can wait for Carl to get back to tell you what type to buy though.

Last but not least, i'm not sure what type of headers you're running (if you're running any) but (soley based on the design) RIPP's long tube headers SHOULD scavenge heat away from the engine bay fairly efficiently. The addition of ceramic coating and/or heat wrap tape will also help a lot.

hope this helps bro, and keep us posted on your progress.




Joe

 

Uhm... I dunno Joe. Push vs. pull has ALWAYS been a controversial discussion. I don't think it's a matter of push or pull as it is of CFM. That is, how much air do the fans move? That's why Live4Redline's fan toggle switch is beneficial as a minor mod - you have the option of keeping the radiator fan always on if you so choose.

Shrouding is just as necessary as the fans, too. Unless you're replacing the fans with 3000 RPM 30" garage box fans, you might not have maximum coverage of as much of the radiator face/fin area, and it's not going to do you as much good as one that allows for maximum air contact. In the case of the stock fans, it's air that's drawn to the fins. Finally, will you have space in the car's front air dam to put both fans and shroud?

I'd say try replacing the stock fans first. If one must insist on push-types, then ghettofy it and put one raw push-type fan in front, and keep the stockers in the back. If anything, the extra velocity that the additional fan will push on the bearings of the stockers and allow more air to flow over the same period of time (hopefully).

 

surprisingly there's plenty of space for the low profile fans and the radiator shroud. I would post pics but then carl would disembowel me due to the pics showing too much of his ubber top secret build. But the size of the fans and the cfm are VERY important.