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43K views 66 replies 29 participants last post by  AJmadlan  
#1 ·
*Original Post by s0madlan*

First I started with the rear.. Jack up your car and put the rear on stands, both sides.. Take both rear tires off.. Then go into the trunk...

Take those off cuz thats where the nuts are located which holds the springs..

<img src="http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/1113/img02601dm.jpg" border="0" />

<img src="http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/7405/img02666ta.jpg" border="0" />

Same with the other side, but the speaker is in the way, so you need to take them off..

<img src="http://img488.imageshack.us/img488/4574/img02593zj.jpg" border="0" />

<img src="http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/9812/img02632lv.jpg" border="0" />

<img src="http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/7966/img02612iv.jpg" border="0" />

<img src="http://img379.imageshack.us/img379/4852/img02644uz.jpg" border="0" />

Once, you got those out and can see the nuts in there JUST LOSEN THEM AT FIRST!!

Next you go behind the brakes and take that off..


<img src="http://img379.imageshack.us/img379/4654/clipboard011of.jpg" border="0" />

Once you took it off, go back in the trunk and undo those 3 nuts. The springs may fall off on the ground... Mine didn't so you just push the bottom part of the springs hard and they should fall out easily.. Now use your spring compressor (do this for all 4)..

<img src="http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/1248/img02679nt.jpg" border="0" />



Next you unscrew the top part and you'll need these to help take it out.. When you unscrew them the top and bottom will move so make sure you pay attention to how they line up cuz you will reinstall them after replacing the springs.. If they are lined up incorrectly you'll have to do them again for it to fit properly..

size T30 for the back struts, T40 for the front

<img src="http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/5272/clipboard033ic.jpg" border="0" />

Here is your bumpstop.. You should cut it at least half an inch.. Some people do more, some do less.. So you figure that out..

<img src="http://img342.imageshack.us/img342/5354/picture27gq.jpg" border="0" />



Now it's time to do the front.. So jack the front end just like how you did the back and take off wheels.. Then pop the hood.. Look for these on both sides and loosen them just like how you did on the rear..

<img src="http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/1918/clipboard041kf.jpg" border="0" />

Next look at the front brakes..


First remove nut (1)

Remove 2 screws holding break lines on both sides (2)

Support the rotor with a jack (it relieves the stress on it after last bolts are removed)

Remove the 2 two largest screws connecting springs to breaks (3)

<img src="http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/5005/picture13fb.jpg" border="0" />

Then do the spring compressor again like above.. And reinstall...

After about a week or 2, make sure you get your car aligned...

EDIT:
<br />
Here are some more pictures, detailed of the springs that MikeW had with road race engineering.. He also said that removing the nut on top of the springs comes off easily with an impact wrench.. I tried it and it works a LOT better than using that tool I listed above.

<a href="http://www.roadraceengineering.com/4g/tech/springinstall/" target="_blank">http://www.roadraceengineering.com/4g/tech/springinstall/</a></span><span class="gensmall">
 
#5 · (Edited)
It's not a hex...it's definitely a torx star...

You don't need it for the springs, though. And you don't need a spring compressor. Do get an impact wrench, though.

Put the entire assembly on soft ground or grass, facing away from you. Then take an impact wrench to the nut AROUND the torx keyhole. I believe it's a 17mm deep socket...might be wrong... Anyway, the assembly will pop apart, and the spring will bounce out a few feet. You can then use the impact wrench to put it all together. Just sandwich your new spring inside the assembly, line the elements properly, and it will come together without a hitch.

I also had issues with the BIG nut/bolt on the front struts... I believe it was 22...or maybe even 24 mm... the one that needs roughly 225Nm torque. I had to use two wrenches, one to turn and another to keep the bolt from spinning. If anyone knows an easier way about this, do tell.
 
#7 ·
just completed the fronts. the overall job was surprisingly easy and all you need is a rachet set (make sure u got a 24mm), a compressor and breaker bar. i jus used the handle from the jack and it worked great. overall install took about 6 hours and i would recommend it to anyone. save a lot of money and use it elsewhere. ill be posting pics within a few days when i get a chance to wash it....and this is exactly how it should have came from the factory
 
#12 ·
2008 Eclipse Progress Springs

Just did mine. Backs were very easy. Allen key fit perfect. (Front and back)

Big bolts on the fronts were tough, but they came off. Needed just short of tool breaking strength to get them off. (Watch your fenders.....and make sure you have a really good socket.....not the time to be slipping off.

Watch when you finally get everything loose while doing the fronts. Very easy to nick or cut the brake lines. I nicked the smaller of the two lines, (anti-lock wires??) but I don't think it went all the way through to the inside. I'll put some really good tape on it for now and keep an eye on things.


Total time was about 5 hours sans lunch. Back still looks a bit high, but then it hasn't settled yet either. Going for a ride tonight....if anything is a miss....I'll report back here tonight.
 
#15 ·
*Brings thread back to life*

Bump! I would like to know the answer to this as well. Trying to learn here. Thanks in advance.
 
#17 ·
Not bump steer. Bump stops. You have to cut them to allow more suspension travel since you are lower. Bump steer is something completely different that involves more explanation than I care to go into in this thread.
 
#19 ·
Yeah that was a typo . I thought I edited the post but didnt.
I've done some reading and got a little better understanding of what a bump stop is. I'm likely going to cut em down to 1 inch. I think that should work well.

Still gotta do the front springs too. Backs are on. I just will go back and cut the bump stop when I can.
 
#20 ·
URGENT help needed guys . Back went smoothly . Front tho, on your picture there where it says nut one. On both sides it just spins , what can I do to stop it I can't seem to see anything on the other side .
 
#27 ·
thread BUMP.

I'd like to know a few things RE: the bump stop.

I want to cut mine, I want to cut them once, and get it right the first time.

  1. How much have others cut theirs? Only interested in people who have dropped on Eibach Pro's, since, I'm assuming that a greater drop = more cut off the bump stop.
  2. From which end do you cut? Do you take 1/2" (as an example) off the narrow end, re-installing the fat end, or do you take 1/2" off the fat end, re-installing the piece with the narrow end?
  3. I'm a bit corn-fused on why you would only cut it a 1/2" when the expected drop is 1.5". Wouldn't you be limiting the shock/strut travel by an inch less than it has at stock height?
  4. Is there a replacement bump stop from Energy Suspension that would work without cutting? (not a big deal here, but ES makes bump stops, just wondering).
Thank you!