[Chaos]

Jeep with water and alkey they should still allow it at the track. Its not a viscus substance like coolant or oil and in the fine mist its sprayed in should all but evaporate before it even hits the track. I know the track close (hour and a half away) to me is a simple circut but they allow sprayers so long as its straight water. But Ziki check the track rules any way to be sure. Wouldn't want to disgrace the 4G by being banned

 

[spyder8213]

Have you done the TB Bypass? It'll help out a little and it may be enough with everything else you have. Fluid coolers, header wrap, phenolic spacers, TB spacer, and vented hood will help out a lot as well.

 

[Slippercream]

Damnit, why do I always miss reading posts. Didn't see that a radiator sprayer was already recommended. :noplease:

I really should stop skimming long threads and instead read!

 

[ussoldier0227]

How bout a cryo kit? A kit that blows co2 in the intake, def would drop the intake temp

 

[ussoldier0227]

Hmmm well strap supersaiyjin to the hood and he'll blow on your engine.....I dunno lol

 

[Suprsaiyjinbroli]

^ LOL. Messed up.

 

[zikizira]

Hmmmm... great question, Ziki

First off, I've heard problems with Water Wetter. Some say it tends to gunk up the radiator, so be VERY careful, or at least do some background research on this first - see what people have to say about it. That said, have you even tried a radiator flush solution, followed by pressure-flushing? A clean radiator may not be the same as a larger, more efficient one - but it might still be worth a shot if you just need a quick fix

I will research about Water Wetter. Anyway, it will be useful at least to my 2Gs I have already done a full radiator clean (with a cleaning product + flushing) in a specialized shop. I have replaced the 50% cooling liquid for a 40% one. I havent raced it yet, since then. I hope this helps too.

Now as far as coatings on headers, ceramic coating will be better than running plain exposed steel. Again, since you're in a place where, I assume, services such as these would be *much* cheaper, why not go for it? You can still also wrap after.

The only place I have discovered that do such ceramic coating here, doesnt do a good job according to my friends. So, the wrapping would be the only option. I will change the header to a RRE short header. I will try to JetHot coating it before shipping.

Now, Carl (horseeater) had the right idea by a radiator shroud. That is, allowing the maximum amount of airflow to flow through the radiator fins. We've got sufficient air dam volume going through the front, but ensuring that every bit of that air goes through the intended path and not to that of least resistance will help. Shroud not just the top but the sides. All the way to the rad support

Good idea. Will check if horse eater still have these to sold.

Finally, as far as your meth system and cooling your intake temps, have you considered using phenolic intake gaskets/spacers? 360jeepboy and several others have invested in this and stand by these. It's definitely one way of keeping intake temps isolated from a hot engine.

I have these already. Have raced 3-4 times, and still have heating issues.

Thank you for the intercooler idea. I will consider all the options.

Best regards,
Ziki

 

[DarkSidEclipse]

Also, don't waste your time spraying something on those headers. Just get the wrap and that will be better and easier.

Hmmmm... great question, Ziki

First off, I've heard problems with Water Wetter. Some say it tends to gunk up the radiator, so be VERY careful, or at least do some background research on this first - see what people have to say about it. That said, have you even tried a radiator flush solution, followed by pressure-flushing? A clean radiator may not be the same as a larger, more efficient one - but it might still be worth a shot if you just need a quick fix

Now as far as coatings on headers, ceramic coating will be better than running plain exposed steel. Again, since you're in a place where, I assume, services such as these would be *much* cheaper, why not go for it? You can still also wrap after.

Now, Carl (horseeater) had the right idea by a radiator shroud. That is, allowing the maximum amount of airflow to flow through the radiator fins. We've got sufficient air dam volume going through the front, but ensuring that every bit of that air goes through the intended path and not to that of least resistance will help. Shroud not just the top but the sides. All the way to the rad support

Finally, as far as your meth system and cooling your intake temps, have you considered using phenolic intake gaskets/spacers? 360jeepboy and several others have invested in this and stand by these. It's definitely one way of keeping intake temps isolated from a hot engine.

Finally, what you said about underbonnet temps CANNOT be farthest from the truth! :bigthumb: The Cyclone engines have always been massive heat generators, and vented hoods aren't, I should say, beneficial only to turbo/supercharged applications. Vent to the front, and toward the firewall, if you can. Every ounce of trapped heat will help temper things down a bit.

Now, here's something a little ricer and :2003:, but...

I know it's intended for intercooled applications, but remember that an intercooler is nothing more than an air-air radiator. An intercooler spraying system such as this (standard in the CT9A Evo) installed over a radiator will also help keep those water temps at bay, in a way that's very similar to hosing down an overheating radiator with hose water and watching the temps dip drastically back to normal. A good, cheap, and safe solution for such a system would be a mix of alcohol and water.

Good luck!

How bout a cryo kit? A kit that blows co2 in the intake, def would drop the intake temp

All good ideas also aluminum radiator

 

[DarkSidEclipse]

As far as oil I would go with Royal Purple. I personally have never seen a test that proves those additives work. I have seen plenty that prove they don't do squat. Placebo IMO

 

[ussoldier0227]

I use the purple juice...does good

 

[allstarflash]

when ur about to race! turn the knob of the A/C to the heater seting but dont turn it on, that will cause for the vents to open and for the hot air to escape!

 

[pdiddy1995]

Carl would be all over this if he wasnt up in alaska right now so i'll try and add my 2 cents. the water wetter isn't as safe as the maker would like you to think so i wouldnt go with that at all. Royal purple is a great motor oil but the additional cooling properties are negligable (i still run it though).

First, if you look at the back of your hood (the part closest to the windshield) you'll see a line of weather stripping, removing the stripping will allow better air flow around the engine while driving and allow the air to escape at the back of the hood without having to raise the back of the hood by some other means and you wont need to buy a new hood. This is an old-school fix for getting heat out from under the hood but it works (just ask RX7 owners)

Second, adding the radiator shroud the Carl made will help focus more air towards the radiator, but you'll want to make sure that the shroud completely covers the gap between the radiator and the frame.

Third, the best cooling mod that i've seen thus far is replacing the pull-style radiator fans with a set of low profile push-fans that mount on the front of the radiator instead of the back, they force a LOT more air through the radiator there-by increasing the cooling efficiency of the stock radiator. In addition the additional space in the engine bay will allow for better air circulation under the hood. You'll have to talk to RRE or you can wait for Carl to get back to tell you what type to buy though.

Last but not least, i'm not sure what type of headers you're running (if you're running any) but (soley based on the design) RIPP's long tube headers SHOULD scavenge heat away from the engine bay fairly efficiently. The addition of ceramic coating and/or heat wrap tape will also help a lot.

hope this helps bro, and keep us posted on your progress.




Joe

 

[Slippercream]

Uhm... I dunno Joe. Push vs. pull has ALWAYS been a controversial discussion. I don't think it's a matter of push or pull as it is of CFM. That is, how much air do the fans move? That's why Live4Redline's fan toggle switch is beneficial as a minor mod - you have the option of keeping the radiator fan always on if you so choose.

Shrouding is just as necessary as the fans, too. Unless you're replacing the fans with 3000 RPM 30" garage box fans, you might not have maximum coverage of as much of the radiator face/fin area, and it's not going to do you as much good as one that allows for maximum air contact. In the case of the stock fans, it's air that's drawn to the fins. Finally, will you have space in the car's front air dam to put both fans and shroud?

I'd say try replacing the stock fans first. If one must insist on push-types, then ghettofy it and put one raw push-type fan in front, and keep the stockers in the back. If anything, the extra velocity that the additional fan will push on the bearings of the stockers and allow more air to flow over the same period of time (hopefully).

 

[pdiddy1995]

surprisingly there's plenty of space for the low profile fans and the radiator shroud. I would post pics but then carl would disembowel me due to the pics showing too much of his ubber top secret build. But the size of the fans and the cfm are VERY important.

 

[snoeclipse]

Do you need to keep your ride street legal?

You could cut out the center of the front bumper structure and facia (plastic) to gain more airflow. Loads more airflow. Worried about road debris? Just get some steel grill mesh and cover the entire hole.

Maybe one of our photoshop wizards here can work up a quick 'n dirty mockup of of what it might look like.

If you do this, you can use both of the the fog light openings for brake cooling and suck all of your engine cooling and air intake from that nice huge opening in the front.

Also, if you can get a NACA duct installed in the hood over the airbox/filter, that will let you suck in cooler air from above the track surface. You also want to get hot air release vents cut into the rear of the hood. More work for one of our photoshop wizards.

Assuming you can cut the front of the bumper out, that will leave all kinds of room for radiator, oil cooler, and electric fan mods. If you can push all that stuff forward it makes more room inside the engine compartment for cooling ariflow.

 

[zikizira]

Water Wetter (and Proflow TB) has just come. Will test before-after Water Wetter this weekend (although I am not sure if, at the street, I will stress the car enough to make the test valid).

 

[Danester]

the t-stat stock is 180*, I put in a 170* stat, it made a world of difference in the long run....I don't know if they make a high flow stat for our car, its a pretty cramped space as it is, I don't think you could improve on the flowrate much, aside from just leaving the t-stat out completely, which of course is a bad idea......

they also make a 143* stat for our cars....that's just a bit too low for my taste....

have you tried a cool can on the fuel lines? I used these on my twin turbo 64 bug......its a simple canister, you run the fuel in one side and out the other, kind of like a filter, but inside the can the line coils around the inside of the can.....the cooling comes in when you fill the can with ice, therefore delivering much cooler fuel to the injectors.......I don't know if this would be very beneficial inour case, due to the locations of the fuel rails on top of the engine, unless you insulated the fuel rail and lines from the cool can......just a thought.....it's original design is to keep older NA engines from vapor locking......it's also a sealed can, so you won't be dripping water or anything on the track....dry ice works in there too, just keep the fumes away from your intake....

 

[snoeclipse]

considering that cars usually run close to a mixture of 14.7:1 (air:fuel, stoichiometric), I'd say that time and effort spent on cooling the intake air would be better spent.

 

[zikizira]

the t-stat stock is 180*, I put in a 170* stat, it made a world of difference in the long run....I don't know if they make a high flow stat for our car, its a pretty cramped space as it is, I don't think you could improve on the flowrate much, aside from just leaving the t-stat out completely, which of course is a bad idea......

they also make a 143* stat for our cars....that's just a bit too low for my taste....

have you tried a cool can on the fuel lines? I used these on my twin turbo 64 bug......its a simple canister, you run the fuel in one side and out the other, kind of like a filter, but inside the can the line coils around the inside of the can.....the cooling comes in when you fill the can with ice, therefore delivering much cooler fuel to the injectors.......I don't know if this would be very beneficial inour case, due to the locations of the fuel rails on top of the engine, unless you insulated the fuel rail and lines from the cool can......just a thought.....it's original design is to keep older NA engines from vapor locking......it's also a sealed can, so you won't be dripping water or anything on the track....dry ice works in there too, just keep the fumes away from your intake....

May you give me the brand and model (maybe shop name) of this lower temp thermostat?

Thank you,
Ziki

 

[360jeepboy]

Part number please! That way I can cross reference it and see if it is used in anyother car. Then it will be easier to find a high flow one.