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20K views 89 replies 15 participants last post by  ddog  
#1 · (Edited)
Thought it was about time to make one of these, so here goes.

History:

I bought this car on a whim. Heard it came to auction, read the specs and put in a bid. All said and done it set me back $6100 tax-in w/105k kilometers on the clock, which was a steal considering the amount of car I'd be getting for the money. Unfortunately, this meant I needed to dump the '12 Elantra I had just picked up some time before, but that's another story.



Maintenance:

Surprisingly little. The car is a stripper, besides the V6, no other option boxes were ticked so there isn't much to go wrong. I've replaced the battery, one 0² sensor, one headlight bulb, both windshield washer nozzles, clutch safety switch is dead (unplugged it) and a vent slider fell out. All minor stuff. I've put full synthetic oil in the motor and nothing short of 91 in the tank. She runs well, although the engine ticks rather loudly when it's cold. Doesn't seem to affect performance, and goes away after a few miles.

Managed to keep it stock for over a year, but nothing lasts forever.

Engine/Power:

Injen CAI
RRE GT headers
Injen 3" catback
TB bypass
Hackish 94 octane tune









Suspension/Handling:

Tanabe STB w/stock bar
Tanabe UB
Progress RSB
Moog Problem Solver rear links
Zmotorsports rear brace
Continental ExtremeContact DW tires











Drivetrain:

TWM GS STS w/Big Type R knob & aluminum base bushings
Torque Solution shifter cable bushings





Aesthetics/Misc:

Zmotorsports door pull brackets
Mitsubishi branded seatbelt cushions (salvaged)
RRE license plate frame







Coming Soon

Energy Suspension poly mounts/bushings
Redline MT-90 transmission fluid

Plans:

I'd like to get this thing on a track, so there's still much to do. Power is more than adequate for now, so I'm looking to put some more time/money into suspension bits. I'm hoping to get a good set of coilovers, poly mounts/bushings all around and sticky tires. Once I can take a corner, I'll worry about the other stuff, but those are the short term goals for now. I'll keep this updated as I go.
 
#90 ·
So is the Quaife LSD a bolt-in swap for the open diff once the tranny is out and open (looks like you unbolt the open from the driven gear and bolt on the LSD) or is there shimming required? I see the tapered roller bearing on the end of the diff output shaft those typically have a preload spec.

Did it fix the torque steer? Would be worth it for just that in my opinion even if not racing.

Thanks.
 
#89 ·
Next up for you new wheels. And ive got the ones for you!![emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
Image
Should go perfect with my train set I got for my 7th birthday lol

Visited Hackish today and sharpened up the 94 tune. Dropped MIVEC engagement to 3800rpm, lowered the DFCO to 1000 (1100 stock) and cut timing all across the rev range to within an inch of knocking. So it's pretty much as optimized as it can get. Should be good for a couple more ponies
 
#86 · (Edited)
Unfortunately no, I hired a mechanic from out of town who specializes in Mitsubishis (who's garage is full of customer's DSMs & Evos).

Currently in the process of breaking it in, so no chance to really test the LSD. I can however say that the clutch/flywheel combo isn't as extreme as I had expected. For one the pedal is actually lighter than stock now, which was a big surprise. There is some chatter at idle, but nothing really too bad, you almost wouldn't notice it. Getting going from a dead stop takes a little finesse because the car will want to buck & bog without enough revs, so you need to give it a bit of gas before bringing up the clutch. Shifting also needs to be done faster as you lose a lot of revs really quickly between gears, and since the flywheel is not sprung, it takes some precision to match speeds without jerking the car. All those issues are relatively minor and can be easily overcome with a little practice. Honestly, a six-puck and LW flywheel are just fine in a daily, nowhere near as hardcore as I had imagined.

Couple extra pics

 
#78 ·
Might port/polish if I can see some data proving its effectiveness, but not really on my short list currently

She should be damn quick!! Probably has shocked quite a few different cars. Nothing like seeing a nice sleeper build!
Yes and no. On the street, she's quick and has taken quite a few names (mostly from shutting people down at stop lights trying to overtake in turning lanes), but my track record isn't as illustrious. Last time out I roasted the stock clutch and took a few L's. She's currently in a garage on jack stands waiting out the winter and some parts. Took delivery of a Bully Stage 4 six puck sprung clutch w/Aasco 11lb flywheel and am ordering a Quaife helical LSD soon. Once those are on and broken in, I should start seeing some wins and hopefully low 13s. Next will probably be coils and some CF bits. 2018 is going to be a busy year for my build, so stay tuned lol
 
#74 ·
I'm in love with this build. I'm convinced on the exhaust setup as that's what i had planned to do too when the funds permit. Sucks you had to cut the injen catback, for that price I would expect it to be a flawless install.

I have a sawzaw so I figure it's a good thing I have it haha, it's def served it's purpose.
 
#69 · (Edited)
Had some time to kill today, so did the backseat and cargo liner delete. Two bolts, two nuts, one 12mm socket. Took maybe 5 minutes to do the work.





Weighed the back seats on my scale. The seat backs weigh 7lbs each (14lbs total) and the cushion weighs 8lbs. Which means a total weight savings of 22lbs. Not bad.
 
#65 ·
Spent the better part of yesterday flashing the car up in Gatineau with Hackish. It's set up to run 94 pump. Governor was bumped up to Warp 9 (510 km/h), rev limiter to 7200, sharpened up the throttle a fair deal and he even integrated a launch control feature (which unfortunately I cannot currently use because my clutch safety switch is defective). If anyone was contemplating getting tuned by Hackish, do it. Not only is he a great guy, but his work speaks for itself. He took his time to really get the tune running perfect and the car is noticably quicker. Should be putting down somewhere in the 280-290whp range.
 
#60 · (Edited)
I'm still on winter rubber in freezing conditions, so I haven't pushed the car through any hard corners yet. When the time comes I'll definitely share my thoughts on it.

I can tell you that the installation was tricky. It requires all the plastic trunk lining to be removed (expect to break a tab or two doing it) and unbolting the seatback clips. Unfortunately, there's a plastic shroud partially covering the bolts which makes it a pain (absolutely need a 10mm box wrench, impossible to use a ratchet). Mounting the bar itself is another feat due to the difficulty in lining up the bolts and tightening them down while holding the bar. I'd recommend installing one plate alone first, then getting someone to help by holding the bar or lining up the bolts/torquing them down. Once it's in, it's another hassle to adjust the new seatback clips and get all the lining to go in right (as the clearances with the new bar are tighter).

It took my old man and I about 2 hours to do the work. For the price, it's worth the effort imo, and Rob is a really nice guy who's easy to work with. Buy it with the door pull brackets and he'll give you a deal.
 
#58 · (Edited)
To anyone running a Tanabe STB (possibly other brands too) on a GT, it'll fit just fine over the stock bar. Saw it on Fabguy's build thread and tried it for myself

EDIT: Cusco bar has a circular plate that bolts onto the towers which probably won't work with the stock STB. Credit to Desert Rat for pointing that out

 
#54 ·
Lol, it's a complimentary figure of speech

It's very loud for my taste. The videos don't do it justice. It doesn't sound bad, but too loud. Taking it to 2.5k rpm sounds like I'm trying to lay down some 11s or instigate a race, so I have to be very careful and short shift religiously in city driving.

I'm seriously looking into welding in one of these to make it a little more livable
 
#55 · (Edited)
Lol, it's a complimentary figure of speech

It's very loud for my taste. The videos don't do it justice. It doesn't sound bad, but too loud. Taking it to 2.5k rpm sounds like I'm trying to lay down some 11s or instigate a race, so I have to be very careful and short shift religiously in city driving.
Lol i know.

Yeah videos never can. Its hard to imagine that 2.5k rpm would be that loud. I have an exhaust cut out before my resonator and 2.5k isnt even that loud. Are you still thinking of trying to lower the sound?
*i should wait untill you finish editing everything to respond*

I looked at that site and I think that would be great. I just wonder how it would sound with your current setup.