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20K views 89 replies 15 participants last post by  ddog  
#1 · (Edited)
Thought it was about time to make one of these, so here goes.

History:

I bought this car on a whim. Heard it came to auction, read the specs and put in a bid. All said and done it set me back $6100 tax-in w/105k kilometers on the clock, which was a steal considering the amount of car I'd be getting for the money. Unfortunately, this meant I needed to dump the '12 Elantra I had just picked up some time before, but that's another story.



Maintenance:

Surprisingly little. The car is a stripper, besides the V6, no other option boxes were ticked so there isn't much to go wrong. I've replaced the battery, one 0² sensor, one headlight bulb, both windshield washer nozzles, clutch safety switch is dead (unplugged it) and a vent slider fell out. All minor stuff. I've put full synthetic oil in the motor and nothing short of 91 in the tank. She runs well, although the engine ticks rather loudly when it's cold. Doesn't seem to affect performance, and goes away after a few miles.

Managed to keep it stock for over a year, but nothing lasts forever.

Engine/Power:

Injen CAI
RRE GT headers
Injen 3" catback
TB bypass
Hackish 94 octane tune









Suspension/Handling:

Tanabe STB w/stock bar
Tanabe UB
Progress RSB
Moog Problem Solver rear links
Zmotorsports rear brace
Continental ExtremeContact DW tires











Drivetrain:

TWM GS STS w/Big Type R knob & aluminum base bushings
Torque Solution shifter cable bushings





Aesthetics/Misc:

Zmotorsports door pull brackets
Mitsubishi branded seatbelt cushions (salvaged)
RRE license plate frame







Coming Soon

Energy Suspension poly mounts/bushings
Redline MT-90 transmission fluid

Plans:

I'd like to get this thing on a track, so there's still much to do. Power is more than adequate for now, so I'm looking to put some more time/money into suspension bits. I'm hoping to get a good set of coilovers, poly mounts/bushings all around and sticky tires. Once I can take a corner, I'll worry about the other stuff, but those are the short term goals for now. I'll keep this updated as I go.
 
#86 · (Edited)
Unfortunately no, I hired a mechanic from out of town who specializes in Mitsubishis (who's garage is full of customer's DSMs & Evos).

Currently in the process of breaking it in, so no chance to really test the LSD. I can however say that the clutch/flywheel combo isn't as extreme as I had expected. For one the pedal is actually lighter than stock now, which was a big surprise. There is some chatter at idle, but nothing really too bad, you almost wouldn't notice it. Getting going from a dead stop takes a little finesse because the car will want to buck & bog without enough revs, so you need to give it a bit of gas before bringing up the clutch. Shifting also needs to be done faster as you lose a lot of revs really quickly between gears, and since the flywheel is not sprung, it takes some precision to match speeds without jerking the car. All those issues are relatively minor and can be easily overcome with a little practice. Honestly, a six-puck and LW flywheel are just fine in a daily, nowhere near as hardcore as I had imagined.

Couple extra pics

 
#89 ·
Next up for you new wheels. And ive got the ones for you!![emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
Image
Should go perfect with my train set I got for my 7th birthday lol

Visited Hackish today and sharpened up the 94 tune. Dropped MIVEC engagement to 3800rpm, lowered the DFCO to 1000 (1100 stock) and cut timing all across the rev range to within an inch of knocking. So it's pretty much as optimized as it can get. Should be good for a couple more ponies
 
#90 ·
So is the Quaife LSD a bolt-in swap for the open diff once the tranny is out and open (looks like you unbolt the open from the driven gear and bolt on the LSD) or is there shimming required? I see the tapered roller bearing on the end of the diff output shaft those typically have a preload spec.

Did it fix the torque steer? Would be worth it for just that in my opinion even if not racing.

Thanks.